
















































































































ART OF KNITTING 


CONTAINING 


CAREFUL DIRECTIONS FOR BEGINNERS, AS WELL AS 
INSTRUCTION IN A VARIETY OF KNITTING 
STITCHES PA TTERNS AND NOVELTIES . 

FOR THOSE ADVANCED IN 
KNITTING. 


COMPILED FROM VALUABLE SOURCES, WITH MANY ADDITIONS, 



By LUCRETIA P. HALE. 



BOSTON: 

S. W. TILTON AND COMPANY 



Copyright, 1SS1, 

By S. W. Tilton & Co. 


. 


J 



Boston Stereotype Foundry, 
No. 4 Pearl Street. 



PREFACE. 


In our instruction of the practice of needlework, it is 
necessary to introduce that of the Knitting-Needle. 

Machinery has done much to displace it, but it has 
never succeeded in making it useless. The shapeli¬ 
ness and cheapness of machine-made stockings cannot 
quite take the place of the comfort and easy fit of the 
hand-knit stocking, and the variety of invention in 
knitted stitches, as displayed in our bazars and Pairs, 
takes the lead, and advances far beyond the adaptations 
of the machine. 

The occupation it affords cannot, indeed, be well re¬ 
placed. It is a quiet, cheery companion for the win¬ 
ter’s fireside, and in the summer’s stormy days. There 
are constantly new materials invented, to be used in 
knitting, and these bring out constantly new objects for 
knitting use. There are the coarse wools of every 
variety and color, for gay wraps, comfortable in look 
and in feeling, to the eye, and the touch. And there 
are the fine linen threads, which bring the work almost 
to the cobweb finish of a lace. Between these two ex¬ 
tremes, almost every knitter can satisfy herself, either 



PREFACE. 


IV 


by trying the more elaborate patterns, in moods of in¬ 
quiry, or by resting her wearied eyes on eas : er work, 
with coarser needles. 


This book is mostly devoted to work with two needles, 
'* back and forward ” knitting, of varieties of patterns 
that can be devoted to various uses. 

A chapter on stocking-knitting is, however, added, as 
a fashion prevails tor knitting silk stockings, which 
has led to a zeal for returning to the old knitting of 


socks and stockings of woollen yarn and cotton. 

Before beginning any pattern, the page containing 
the meaning of the terms used, and their abbreviations, 
should be carefully read. 

The instructions in the beo-innincr, with the assistance 
of the illustrations, will, it is hoped, be sufficient to 
guide the beginner, even if she has not the help of a 
grandmother or aunt, to show how it was done in the 
olden time. 


Lucretia P. Hale. 


CONTENTS 


Abbreviations Explained 
Affghans .... 


Braided Stitch 
Brioche Stitch 
Brioche Cushion . 
Brioche, another . 
Borders for Shawls 
Bolster Cushion . 

“ for Pincusiiio 


Cable Twist and Vandyke Pattern 
Canadian Cloud 
Casting on 
Chain-Edge 
Cord to connect Stripes for Affghans 
Counterpanes . 

“ Border . 

“ Laurel-leaf 

“ Maltese 

Cross Open Stitch 


Decreasing 

“ in Pearling 
Diamond Edging 

“ Open Stitch 
Double Knitting . 


PAGE 


69 


25 

23 

74 


S 6 , 


75 
S9. 94 
101 
S 7 


26 

7 5 
5 

19 

102 

79 

79 

Si 

76 


17, 18 
17 
6 + 
30 
20 


Edgings, Nos. i, 2, 3, 4, 5. 41-44 

“ wide, Nos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. 44-54 

“ Rosebud. 7S 

“ Rose-leaf. 


















CONTENTS . 


Edging for Shawl, No. i 

• 

• 

• 

• 


• 

PAGE 

9 1 

“ “ “ No. 2 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

92 

“ “ “ No. 3 

• 

* 

* 

• 

• 

• 

. 96 

“ “ Blanket . 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

67 

“ DEEP SCOLLOPED 

• 

• 


• 

• 

• 

53 

“ OPEN FLUTED . 


• 




• 

. 66 

“ PLAIN FLUTED . 


• 

• 



• 

6 5 

“ FLUTED IN SCOLLOPS 



• 



• 

66 

Eyelet Pattern .... 



• 

• 

• 

• 

. S 4 

Fagoting . . • . . . 




• 

• 

• 

37 

Feather Pattern 



• 

• 

• 

• 

• 83 

First Stitch . 

• 


• 


• 

• 

9 

Fluted Edgings .... 

• 


• 


• 

• 

65, 66 

Fringe . 

• 




• 

• 

73 

Garter Stitch .... 

• 



• 

• 

• 

12 

General Directions for Stocking-Knitting 


• 

• 

97 

Half Diamond Pattern 




• 

• 

• 

23 

Hearth-Rug . 







7 1 

Increasing . 







14, 16 

for Pearling 

. 

• 

• 

• 

• 


•5 

Insertions, Nos. i, 2, 3, 4. 5, 6 

• 


• 

• 

• 


56. 64 

“ FOR ChAIIIBACKS EXPLAINED 


• 

• 


6S 

Ladder Stitch, open . 

• 



• 

• 


30 

Last Suggestions 

• 

• 





100 

Lattice Pattern «... 

• 

• 

• 



• 

. So 

Leaf Border . 

• 

• 

• 

• 


• 

• 35 

Loop Knitting .... 

• 

• 

• 

• 


• 

72, 102 

Lorne Pattern .... 

• 


• 

• 


• 

. Sa 

Moss Stitch . 

• 


• 



• 

20 

Narrow Insertion 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

. 64 

Net Pattern . 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

• A 2 

Nun's Veil . 


























CONTEXTS. 


3 


PAGE 

Open Stitches, plain, fine .29, 33 

Open work, simple spotted, Turkish . 31, 33, 37, 37. 3S, 39 


Pearling.11 

Persian Affghan ... 70 

Petticoat, Lady s Winter.73 

Pincushion . 87 

Plain Knitting.12 

. Portieres Knit of Silk Scraps.102 

Position of Hands.9 

Purses, Directions for .34. 37 


Quilt .76 

Ribbed Stitch.13 

Roman Scarf Affghan.69 

Rosebud Edging .78 

Rose-leaf Edging.53 

Scotch Baby Blanket (two ways).71 

Self-edges ............ 19 

Shawls .71, 89 

Shetland Shawl, No. i 89 

“ No. 2.91 

“ “ No. 3.93 

Slip Stitch .iS 

Slip and Bind.19 

Stocking, Rules for Knitting.9S 


Talisman Pattern.S3 

Twist Stitch. 13 

“ “ PEARLED.13 

Twisted Cable Si itch .23 

Waffle Pattern.28 

Wheat-Ear Pattern.82 

Winding Wool.8S 

Woollen Fringe. 73 

Victoria Pattern.84 

Vosgian Pattern.27 

Zigzag Pattern.85 
























ART-NEEDLEWORK. 


C HAPTER I 

KNITTING. 

“ CASTING ON ” THE STITCHES. 

A witty direction was once given for the beginning of 
knitting-work : 

“Imagine the first row, then cast on the stitches.” 
Something of this process is actually necessary for the 
knitter, but our illustrations will simplify the matter. 



Fig. I. 


5 










6 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Take up the ball of thread, as shown in Fig. i. Make 
a slip loop with one of the needles, which is then trans¬ 
ferred from the right to the left hand. (Fig. 2.) 



Fig. 2. 

Take the second needle, and pass it into the loop thus 
formed, crossing it under the first needle, as in Fig. 3. 



Fig- 3. 











A RT-NEEDLE IVOR A'. 


7 


Take the needle in the right-hand, holding the thread 
on fore-finger and little-finger, as in Fig. 4. 



Fig. 4. 

With the forefinger of the right-hand pass the thread 
around the right needle, as in Fig. 5. 



With the right-hand, draw the loop thus formed on the 





8 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


right needle through the loop already on the left needle, as 
in Fig. 6. 



This new loop now formed must be transferred from the 
right needle to the left, side by side with the first loop, as 
shown in Fig. 7, which represents a succession of these 


y 



Fig. 7. 


loops, made and transferred in the manner described. 












A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


9 


Continue to insert the needle in each successive loop, as 
represented in the illustrations of Figs. 4, 5, and 6, and as 
is shown by Fig. 8. 



These loops for the first row should be “ cast on ” loosely, 
or a drawn, puckered effect will be given to the work. 
Knitting can hardly be set on too loosely. 

POSITION OF THE HANDS. 

After casting on the stitches, the right needle should be 
held in the palm of the right-hand. 

When the required number of stitches is cast on, and 
the needles taken in hand as described, it is usual, in knit¬ 
ting with two needles only, to “slip” the first stitch, that is, 
remove it from the left to the right hand needle without 
knitting, as in Fig. 24. 

Put the right-hand needle in the next loop, pass the 
thread round the point, tighten the thread and catch it on 





IO 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


the right-hand needle, as shown in Fig. 9. Take this 

newly made stitch off the 
left needle, and draw it out 
on the right. 

In the left-hand, the 
needle should rest on the 
third finger, midway be¬ 
tween the first and second 
joint, coming out against 
the edge of the palm, half¬ 
way between the last joint 
of the little finger and the bone of the wrist ; and this 
and the third finger should be bent, so as to touch the 
inside of the palm, and thus keep the needle steady. 
The left thumb should cover the first stitch but one on the 
left-hand needle, and also rest on the inside of the first 
joint of the forefinger. 

The right-hand needle should rest along the first joint 
of the second finger, which should be so bent that the tip 
of that finger holds the needle against the “ball” of the 
right thumb. The forefinger should cover the stitches up 
to the last knitted on the needle. The cotton or wool 
should go over the forefinger, across the nail, and be held 
down by the third finger ; and this and the fourth finger 
should be bent so as to touch the inside of the palm of the 
hand. The right thumb should be about three-quarters 
of an inch below the last knitted stitch. Both thumbs 
should be perfectly stationary during the whole time of 
knitting all the stitches on the needle. There are other 
ways of holding the knitting-needle, namely, holding the 
right needle so that it may rest on the point of the “ V ” 



Fig- 9. 






A R T-NEEDLEIV ORE. 


11 

formed by the joining of the forefinger and the thumb, 
which by some is called the English method ; and the Ger¬ 
man plan, where the thumbs almost touch each other, and the 
thread is worked across the first 
joint of the first forefinger. 

Probably each one is right ; but 
the . method shown in Fig. io 
is surely the most graceful. Use 
as little motion as possible. 

Fig. 10. 

PEARLING, OR PURLING, SOMETIMES CALLED SEAMING. 

This is the same as knitting backwards. Bring the 
thread in front of the right-hand needle, which should 
take up the stitch on the left-hand needle, entering at the 
right side of the thread in front. Throw the thread 
round at the back of the needle as it passes in the stitch, 
shown in Fig. 11, catch it in and take it off. 



Fig. II. 


The thread is always brought forward before beginning 
a pearled stitch, unless particular directions to the con¬ 
trary are given. 





12 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


The directions forknittin g plain, therefore, always imply 
the stitch illustrated by Fig. 9 ; pearling , or seaming , as 
shown in Fig. 11. 

GARTER STITCH FOR TWO NEEDLES. 

When the work is done on two needles, if the “plain ” 
knitting stitch is used, whenever the work is turned, a 
succession of ridges is formed, this is called garter stitch. 
It is the simplest form of knitting, and convenient for be¬ 
ginners, as shown in Fig. 12. 



Fig. 12. 

PLAIN KNITTING. 

When a plain surface is needed on the right side with 
two needles, the alternate rows must be pearled. The work 



Fig- 13 A. Fig. 13 B. 


will appear as in Fig. 13 A on what is usually called the 
right side. Fig. 13 B shows the wrong side. 























A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


13 


RIBBED STITCH. 

When a ribbed effect is needed up and down the work, 
a rib can be formed by knitting one stitch plain, the next 
pearled: and the effect will be oroduced, as is shown in 



Fig. 14 A. Or the ribs maybe cast two stitches wide, 
in which case knit two plain, pearl two, as in Fig. 14 B. 

Be careful to carry the thread back of the needle after a 
pearled stitch, before beginning a plain stitch. 


TWIST STITCH. 

This is like plain knitting, only the needle should be put 
in the back of the stitch to be knitted, after which knit as 
usual. This is often necessary in forming open stitches. 

TWIST PEARL-STITCH. 

In working backwards and forwards where the pearled 
stitch should correspond with the knitted, this is necessary. 
Hold the right-hand needle nearly parallel with that in left- 
hand, and behind it. Insert the point in the stitch, and 
bring it out with that of the left-hand ; then pearl as usual. 



















14 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK . 


TO INCREASE. 

To cast on new stitches, in the course of the work, 
make a loop over the thumb as in Fig. 15. In this way 
you can 

MAKE A NUMBER OF SUCCESSIVE STITCHES. 



To make one stitch in plain knitting, bring the thread in 
front of the needle, as for pearling, then knit plain, as 
shown in Fig. 16. 



Fig. 16. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


15 


To increase with two stitches, bring the thread forward 
and pass it round the needle, as in Fig. 17. 



Fig. 17. 

TO INCREASE IN PEARLING. 


To make one stitch 
in pearling, the thread 
being already in front of 
the needle, must also be 
passed round the needle, 
as in Fig. 18. 

Fig. 18. 

For two stitches, the thread must be twice passed round 
the needle, as in Fig. 19. 




Fig. 19. 







16 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK . 


FOR OPEN WORK. 

This same method is used where a hole for an open-work 
pattern is needed. To make two, three, or more, pass the 

thread round the 
needle in addition, 
once for 2, twice for 
3, and so on. This 
method is used when 
an open-work pat¬ 
tern is desired, when 
the thread is brought 
forward as in Fig. 20. 

Fig. 20. 

TO INCREASE WITHOUT BRINGING THE THREAD FORWARD. 

Take a plain stitch and a pearl-stitch in the same loop, 
as in Fig. 21. 




TO RAISE A STITCH. 

This is necessary when three stitches have to be made 
without producing a hole. Make one, by bringing the 
thread forward, take up and knit as an ordinary stitch 





A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 17 

the bar of thread between the two needles, again bring 
the thread front to make another. Three extra stitches are 
obtained. 


TO DECREASE IN KNITTING. 

Pass the right needle through two loops, and knit the 
two together as one, as in Fig. 22. 



Fig. 22. 


TO DECREASE IN PEARLING. 


Have the thread before the needle, and pearl two stitches 
together, as in Fig. 23. 









18 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


SLIP STITCH. 

Take the stitch from the left needle to the right without 
knitting, as in Fig. 24. In pearling, bring the thread for¬ 
ward and slip, as in Fig. 25. 



Fig. 25. 


FOR DECREASE. 

This slip-stitch is sometimes used in decreasing. Slip the 
stitch, knit the next, pass the slipped stitch with the needle 
over the knitted stitch, as in Fig. 26. Or the slipped stitch 
can be passed over two knitted stitches, as in Fig. 27. Or 



slip two off, knit the third, and pass the two slipped stitches 
over. Or slip one, knit three together, and pass the 











A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


19 


slipped stitch over. This is called, to “slip and bind.” In 
certain patterns, where it is necessary to decrease twice, 
the decrease should be made first, as in Fig, 26, with the 
slip and bind stitch ; a stitch should be knit between, and 
then decrease, as in Fig. 22, by knitting two together. 

TO FINISH OFF, SOMETIMES CALLED TO CAST OFF, OR SLIP 

AND BIND. 

Slip the first stitch, knit the second, and with the left-hand 



Fig. 28. 

needle, draw the slip-stitch over the knit stitch, as in Fig. 
28. Observe that this row should never be tightly knitted. 

SELF-EDGE. 

This edge is sometimes advised when the object is to 
have a perfectly plain edge. When this is desired, begin 
with a slip-stitch pearling, and end with a twist stitch. 

CHAIN EDGE. 

A pretty finish is given by always slipping the first 
stitch of each row, and pearling the last. 











20 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


OOUBLE-KNITTING. 

Cast on an even number of stitches. Bring the thread 
in front, slip one, as if for pearling, put the thread back, 

knit one. Repeat to the end 
of the row. The second row 
is like the first. In the first 
row, half the stitches have 
been knitted. In the second 
row, you knit the stitches that 
have been slipped. The two 
sides of the work will look 
alike, as it appears in Fig. 29, 
and will form a double fabric that can be lifted apart. It 
makes a pretty baby’s blanket with border. 

With these directions numberless patterns can be 
worked. We begin with the most simple. 

MOSS STITCH. 

This consists simply of knitted and pearled stitches, done 
alternately ; and in working backwards and forwards, you 
will take care to begin always with the same kind of stitch 
as that with which you terminated the last row, which, of 
course, will look different. It has a very pretty dotted 
appearance, and, in the variegated wools, looks soft and 
mossy. 



CHESS BOARD PATTERN. 

This is formed by knitting and pearling alternately an 
equal number of stitches, knitting the pearled, and pearling 



















21 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 

% 

the knitted in the back rows. After as many rows as you 
have knitted or pearled stitches, reverse them, for as many 
more. 









CHAPTER II. 


ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THE FOLLOWING 

DIRECTIONS. 

K — for plain knitting. 

P — pearling, the same as pearling or seaming. 

K2t —knit two together as shown by Fig. 22 ; 3t, three 
together, and so on. 

P2t — pearl two together as in Fig. 23 ; 31, three to¬ 
gether, and so on. 

Bf — Bring the thread forward, in front of the needle, 
to increase, as in Fig. 16. Bf2, pass the thread forward, 
over the needle once, and forward once more, as in Fig. 
17. If the thread is to be wound to increase more times, it 
will be indicated by Bf3, &c. In pearling, the thread is 
already before the stitch, and to increase requires the stitch 
to be Bf2, as will always be indicated. 

S — slip stitch, as in Fig. 24. 

Sp — slip pearling, as in Fig. 25. 

Sb — to finish off, as in Fig. 28. 

Sbi —slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, as in 
Fig. 26. 

Sb2 — slip 1, knit 2, pass slipped stitch over the two, as 
in Fig. 27. 

T— twist stitch to take the stitch at the back. See p. 13. 

Pt — twist pearl stitch. See p. 13. 

These abbreviations must be applied to the following 
directions. 


ART-NEEDLE WORK. 


23 


HALF-DIAMOND. 

First row — *pearl 1, k7*; repeat to the end from *, 
finish with pi. 

Second row—knit 2, p5, ki ; repeat, end with k2. 

Third row — p3, k3, p2 ; end with p3. 

Fourth row—k4, pi, k3 ; end with kzp 

This is half the pattern. Do the four rows again, knit¬ 
ting those you have pearled, and pearling what you did 
knit. 


ENGLISH BRIOCHE STITCH. 

(See Fig. 30, p. 21.) 

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 3. Add four 
stitches for the border. Slip the first stitch, knit 1 for 
border. *Bring the thread forward, spi, knit 2 together. 
Repeat from * to the end with two plain stitches for border. 
This pattern is very simple, as the slip-stitch stands by 
itself, and is easily taken off. 

TWISTED CABLE STITCH. 

For this a third needle is required, which should be 
pointed at both ends. Cast on 14 stitches. 

First row — spi, k 12 ; t last stitch. 

Second row — spi, k2 ; take the third needle in the 
right-hand and p4 ; continue on the same row, holding 
the third needle in front of the second, and with the first 
needle, p4, from the second ; k2 ; and st, the last stitch. 

Third row—spi, k2 ; from the third needle, which 
must now lie under the second, continue to k6, from the 
second needle ; s, t the last stitch. 

Fourth row—spi, k2, p8, k2 ; s, t last stitch. 


24 


ART-NEEDLEIVORK . 


Fifth row — like the first. 
Sixth row — like the fourth. 
Seventh row — like the first. 



Fig. 31. 


Eighth row — like the fourth. 

Then begin with the first row again. 

This pattern can be repeated to form stripes, for an 
affghan for instance, in which case cast on a number of 
stitches, for the width of the affghan, that can be divided 
evenly by 14, or if desired the number of plain stitches and 
chain in each pattern can be increased, and added to the 
number required for each pattern. See fig. 31. 
































A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


25 


BRAIDED STITCH. 

For this, three needles of the same size are needed, of 
which the third needle should be pointed at both ends. 
Cast on 18 stitches. 



Fig. 32. 


First row—spi, ki6 ; t last stitch. 

Second row — spi, k2 ; take the third needle in the 
right-hand (leaving the first needle), and p4; continue 
with the first needle (holding the third needle in front of 
the second), and p8, k2 ; t last stitch. 

Third row—spi, k6, k4 from the third needle taken 












































26 


A R KNEE DEE WORK. 


crossing under the second needle ; k6 from the second 
needle, ti the last stitch. 

Fourth row—spi, k2, pi2 ; k2 ; ti the last stitch. 

Fifth row—spi, ki6 ; ti the last stitch. 

Sixth row—spi, k2, p8. Take the third needle and 
leaving the first needle, p4 ; continue the row with the 
first needle, leaving the third in front of the second k2 ; 
ti the last stitch. 

Seventh row — spi, k2, kz}., from the second needle 
crossed in front of the third needle, k4, from the third 
needle, continue from the second needle, k6 ; ti the last 
stitch. 

Eighth row — like the fourth row. 

Return to the first row. This pattern can be repeated 
to form braided stripes for an affghan, for instance, in 
which case, for the width, cast on a number of stitches 
that can be divided even by 18, unless more space is re¬ 
quired between, for which the number of stitches needed 
must be accounted for. See fig. 32. 


CABLE-TWIST AND OPEN VANDYKE PATTERN. 

Cast on for each pattern 16 stitches, 4 extra for edge 
stitches. 

First row — k2, *p, Bfi, p2t, Bfi, p2t, p. Slip 5 stitches 
on a third needle, keeping it in front ; then k5, behind 
it, on the second needle ; k$ on the third needle. Repeat 
from *. 

Second row — k2, *k2, p, k, p, k, pio. Repeat from *. 

Third row — k2, * p, Bfi, p2t, Bfi, p2t, p, kio. Repeat 
from *. 


A R T-NEEDLE H T ORK. 


27 


Fourth to Sixteenth rows — the same as 2d and 3d, 
alternately. 

Seventeenth row — same as 1st, and repeat as above. 
This pattern makes a longer distance between the twists, 
and is useful for finer work in stockings or counterpanes 
with cotton or linen thread. 

VOSGIAN PATTERN. 



Cast on the number of stitches required, which must be 
divisible by 2, leaving 4 stitches for the edges. 

First row — slip 1, knit the rest of the row. 

Second row — slip 1, ki *spi, bring the thread to the 
right of the needle, kr ; *repeat through the row, as far 
as the two last stitches ; k2. 

Third row— the same as the first. 

Fourth row—si ; ki ; *ki, pi. Repeat, ending with k2. 

Begin with the first row and repeat. This resembles 
double knitting, but varies in knitting an alternate plain 
row back. 








































28 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


WAFFLE PATTERN. 



Fig. 34. 


Cast on a number of stitches that is divisible by 8, add¬ 
ing 6 stitches for edges. 

First row — si ; p the remainder of the row till the 
last, ki. 

Second row — si ; k the remainder of the row. 

Third row — the same as the first. 

Fourth row — the same as the second. 

Fifth row — si ; pi ; sp2. Put the thread back to the 
right side. *k6; sp2. Repeat from * as far as the last 
two ; si; ki. 

Sixth row — si ; ki ; sp2 ;* p6 ; sp2. Repeat from* k2. 

Seventh row—the same as the 5th. 

Eighth row — the same as the 6th. 

Ninth row — the same as the 5th. 

Tenth row — the same as the 6th. 

Return to the first row, and repeat. 































































































































A R T-JVEEDLE WORK. 


29 


SIMPLE OPEN-STITCH. 



Fig. 35. 


fast on an even number of stitches. 

First row. — si, ki, k2t. Repeat 1. 

Second row — si, ki. * Raise stitch, by passing the 
needle in the mesh lying between the two needles, ki. 
Repeat from *. Finish the row with k2. Repeat these 
two rows. 



Fig. 36. 

















A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


o 


O 


DIAMOND OPEN STITCH. See fig. 36. 

First row — si. Knit the remainder of the row. 

Second row — si. Pearl the remainder. 

Third row—si, ki,* k2t. Repeat from *, ending 
with k2. 



Fig. 37, 

SHOWS THE SAME ON THE WRONG SIDE. 


Fourth row — si, ki. * Raise a stitch, passing the 
needle in the mesh between the two needles, ki. Repeat 
from *, ending with k2. 


OPEN LADDER STITCH. 



Fig. 38. 






















A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


31 


Begin with seven stitches ; if more are needed, add two 
for each open pattern. 

hirst row — si, ki ; *Bf; sb, twice *ki. 

Second row — si ; k the remainder of the row. 


TURKISH OPEN-WORK. 



Fig. 39. 


Begin with 15 stitches ; if more are needed, add 3 for 
each pattern. 

First row — si, k2 ; (4 times ; Bf; sb ; ki ;) finish the 
row with ki. 

Second row — Like the first. 

cross open stitch. See fig. 4a 

This can be done with two colors. 

Cast on a number of stitches, divisible by 3, adding 2 
for the edges. 

First row — si. Pearl the remainder, ending with ki. 

Second row — si ; * k3 ; slip the first of these 3, over 








32 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


the 2 other stitches, Bf, ki. Change the color, if t\^o are 
used. 



Fig. 40. 


Third row—si ; p the remainder, ending with ki. 
Fourth row— si, ki ; * Bf, k3 ; slip the first of these 
over the other two stitches. Repeat from *, k3» 


NET PATTERN. 



Fig 41. 

First row — s I ; * t2t; Bf2 ; k2t. Repeat from *. 




A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


33 


Second row — p all the stitches except, k, the crossed 
stitches brought forward of the last row. 

Third row — to alternate the holes, after the si; ki, 
continue as in 1st row. 

Fourth row — like the 2d. 


PLAIN OPEN STITCH. 



Fig. 42. 


First row—si; *Bfi, k2t. Repeat from*. Second 
row, p the whole row. 

This is much like Ladder stitch, but the stitches are 
knit together, instead of a decrease*with “ slip and bind.” 


FINE OPEN STITCH. 



Fig. 43. 


First row — pearl every stitch. 

Second row — si,*k2; Bf2. Re¬ 
peat from * 

Third row — * p2t. Repeat 
from *. Repeat the 2d and 3d 
rows, only alternating the Bf stitch 
so as to bring the stitches taken 



34 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


together alternately, as in the illustration. For instance, 
in the 4th row, begin si, * Bf2, k2. Repeat from *. 
The 6th row like the 2d, the 8th row like the 4th, and 
so on. 

PURSE STITCH. 

To be done with “superior knitting” silk and fine ivory 
needles. Cast on 72 stitches. 

First row —k2t ; Bfi ; ki. Repeat to end of row. 

Second row — Knit. 

Knit 40 rows, repeating these two. Double, and sew 
together, leaving about 3 inches open in the middle. Sew 
together square at one end. Draw up for a tassel at the 
other. Almost any of the open fancy stitches answers for 
a purse, but this is especially adapted, being of a firmer 
texture, not easily stretched out of place. 


RAISED DIAMOND STITCH. 



Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 9. 

First row — * k2 ; sb twice, (that is, * si, ki ; pass the 
slipped stitch over the knit stitch. Repeat from *), k2, 
Bf; ki, Bf. Repeat from *. 












A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


35 


Second row — pearl every stitch in the row. 

Third row — ki, *sb twice, k2, bf, ki, bf, k2. Repeat 
from *. 

Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row — *sb twice, ki, bf, k2, in the mesh between 
the needles, ki, pi, bf, ki. Repeat from *. 

Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row — ki, *k2t, bf, k6, bf, sb twice. Repeat 
from *. 

Eighth row—like the second. 

Ninth row — *k2t, bf, k2, sb twice, k2, bf. Repeat 
from *. 

Tenth row — like the second. 

Eleventh row — ki, * bf, k5, sb twice, k2, bf, ki. Re¬ 
peat from *. 

Twelfth row — like the second. 

Thirteenth row — k2, *bf, ki, sb twice, ki, bf, k2 in 
a mesh between the needles ; ki, pi. Repeat from *. 

Fourteenth row — like the second. 

Fifteenth row—k3, *bf, sb twice, bf, k6. Repeat from *. 

Sixteenth row — like the second. 

Seventeenth row—*bf, k2, bf, k2t, bf, k2, sb twice. 
Repeat from *. 

This description, as will be seen by the illustration, gives 
with a completed diamond, a half-diamond, which alternate 
with each other in the course of the work. 

LEAF BOEDER. 

Cast on twenty-seven stitches. 

First row — si, k2, bf, k2t, bf, k3, pi, k2, k2t, pi, k2t, 
k2, pi, k3, bf, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 


36 


A R T-NEEDLE W ORE. 


Second row — si, k2, bf, k2t, p4, ki, p3, ki, p3, ki, 

P4, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 

Third row — si, k2, bf, k2t, bf, ki, bf, k2t, ki, pi, ki, 
k2t, pi, k2t, ki, pi, ki, k2t, bf, ki, bf, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 



Fig. 45. 


Fourth row—si, k2, bf, k2t, p5, ki, p2, ki, p2, ki, 
p5, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 

Fifth row — si, k2, bf, k2t, bf, k3, bf, k2t, pi, k2t, 
pi, k2t, pi, k2t, bf, k3, bf, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 

Sixth row — si, k2, bf, k2t, p6, ki, pi, ki, pi, ki, p6, 
k2, bf, k2t, ki. 

Seventh row — si, k2, bf, k2t, bf, k5, bf, k3t (that 
is, knit 3 together), pi, k3t, bf, k5, bf, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 

Eighth row— si, k2, bf, k2t, p8, ki, p8, k2, bf, k2t, ki. 
Repeat continually these eight rows. 




A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


37 


SIMPLE FAGOTING. 

Cast on stitches divisible by 3 or 6. 

First row — * ki, bf, k2t. Repeat from * 



Fig. 46. 


Second row — *bf, k2t, pi. Repeat from *. 
very pretty, knit in silk for a purse. Cast on 
enough for the width of a long purse. 

For a watchguard, cast on six or nine stitches. 

SIMPLE OPEN WORK IN STRIPES. 

First row— knit plain. 

Second row — *p2, t2t, bf. Repeat from *. 



Fig. 47. 


This is 
stitches 


Third row — knit plain, considering each cross thread 
brought forward in preceding row as one stitch. 




33 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Fourth row — like the second, except bf, before, not 
after the t2t. 


SIMPLE OPEN WORK. 



Fig. 48. 

First row — knit plain. 

Second row — *k3t, m2 (that is, in the next stitch on 
the needle ki, pi, ki). Repeat from *. 

These two rows form the pattern, which should, however, 
be alternated; that is, knit together the three stitches when 
two were added, and add two stitches when three were 
knit together in the row preceding the last. 


SIMPLE OPEN WORK. 



Fig. 49. 


A R T-NEEDLE H 'ORE. 


39 


First to third row — alternate constantly, k3, p3. 
Fourth row — * p3, bf, 1 < 3 1. bf. Repeat from * 

SIMPLE OPEN WORK. 



Fig. 50. 


First row—si, * k3t, bf. Repeat from *. 

Second row — pearl the whole row, making, however, 3 
stitches in each cross thread of bf of preceding row (pi, 
ki, pi in each cross thread), pi. 

Third row — knit plain. 

Fourth row — pearl the whole row. After each four 
rows, the pattern must be alternated. 


SPOTTED OPEN WORK. 



Fig. 51. 


Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 8. 








40 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


First row — *bf2 (to increase in pearling, always bring 
forward twice), p2t, p3, p2t, bf2, pi. Repeat from *. 

Second row — bfi, k2, *bfi, sbi (that is, slip one, 
knit one, and pass slipped stitch over it), ki, k2t, bfi, 
k3. Repeat from *,except at the end of row, ki instead 
of k 3 . 

Third row — p2, *bf2, p3t, bf2, p5. Repeat from*, 
except at the end of the row p 4 only. 

Fourth row—*k3, k2t, bfi, ki, bfi, k2t. Repeat 
from *, except at the end of the row, after knitting 2 
together, ki. 

Fifth row — p 2 , *bf2, p3, bf 2 , p2t, pi, p2t. Repeat 
from *, except at the end of the row, instead of p2t, pi. 

Sixth row —*sbi, bfi, k5, bfi. Repeat from *, except 
at the end of the row; after, bfi, k2t. 

Seventh row — *pi, bf2, p2t, p3, p2t, bf2. Repeat 
from *, except at the end of the row, after the last, bfi, 

pi. 

Eighth row — k 2 , *bfi, sbi, ki, k2t, bfi, k3. Repeat 
from *, except at the end of the row k2, instead of k3* 
Repeat these 8 rows. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


41 


CHAPTER III. 


EDGING NO. I. 



Cast on eight stitches. 

P'irst row — knit every stitch. 

Second row — si, k2t, bf 2 , t2t, bf2, t2t. 

Third row — si, in the thread brought forward of pre¬ 
ceding row, ki, pi, then k2, pi, k2. In every other row 
two stitches, as just described, will be taken in the thread 
brought round the needle, one knit, one pearled. 

Fourth row — si, k2t, bf2, t2t, ki, bf2, t2t. 

Fifth row — si, ki, pi (in thread brought over), k 3 , 
pi, k2. 

Sixth row — si, k2t, bf2, t2t, k2, bf2, t2t. 

Seventh row — si, ki, pi, k4, pi, k2. 

Eighth row — si, k2t, bf2, t2t, k3, bf2, t2t. 

Ninth row — si, ki, pi, k5, pi, k2. 

Tenth row — si, k2t, bf2, t2t, ki, bf4, k2t, ki, bf2, t2t. 

Eleventh row — si, ki, pi, k3, pi, ki, pi, k3, pi, k2. 

Twelfth row — si, k2t, bf 2 , t2t, k 2 . 

Thirteenth row — si, cast off eight stitches, k3, pi, k2. 
Repeat from the second through the thirteenth row. 











4 ^ 


ART-NEEDLE WORK . 


EDGING NO. 2. 



Cast on eight stitches. Knit across once. 

First row — si, bfi, t2t, ki, bf4, k2t. 

Second row—si. In the four turns of the thread* 
brought forward last row, ki, pi, ki, pi, ki, pi ; then T3, 
bfi, t2t, ki. 

Third row — si, k2, bfi, t2t, k8. 

Fourth row — si, k9, bfi, t2t, ki. 

Fifth row — si, k2, bfi, t2t, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t, bf2 ; k2t, 
bf2, k2t. 

Sixth row — si, ki, pi, k2, pi, k2, pi, k2, pi, k2, bfi, 
t2t, ki. 

Seventh row — si, k2, bfi, t2t, ki2. 

Eighth row — si, k13, bfi, t2t, ki. 

Ninth row — like the seventh. 

Tenth row — like the eighth. 

Eleventh row — like the seventh. 

Twelfth row — cast off (sb) 9, k4, bfi, t2t, ki. 

EDGING NO. 3 . 

Cast on seven stitches. 

First row — si, pi, k5. 

Second row — si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, k2. 






A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


43 


Third row — bf2, p2, k5. 

Fourth row — si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, k$. 



Fifth row — bf2, p3, k5. 

Sixth row — si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, k4. 

Seventh row — bf2, p4, k5. 

Eighth row — si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, k2, bfi, k2t, ki. 
Ninth row — si, p4, k5. 

Tenth row — si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, k3, k2t. 

Eleventh row — si, p3, k5. 

Twelfth row — si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, k2, k2t. 

Thirteenth row — si, p2, k5. 

Fourteenth row—si, bf2, p2t, bf2, p2t, ki, k2t. Repeat 
these rows. 


EDGING NO. 4. 



Cast on nine stitches. 

First row — si, k2, k2t, bfi, k2t, k2t. 

Second row — knit every stitch, except in the thread 
brought forward of former row, ki, pi. 

Third row — si, k3, k2t, bf; k2t. 
















44 


A R T-NEEDL E WORK . 


Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row — si, k2, bfi, k2t, k2t, bfi, k2. 

Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row — si, k2, k2t, bfi, k2t, k2t, bfi, k2. 
Eighth row— like the second. 

o 

Ninth row — si, ki, k2t, bfi, k2t, k2t, bfi, k2t. 
Tenth row — like the second. 

Eleventh row — si, k2, k2t, k2t, bfi, k2t. 
Twelfth row — like the second. 


EDGING NO. 5. 



Fig. 58. 


Cast on ten stitches. 

First row — si, k3, k2t, bfi, k2t, k2. 

Second row—knit plain, except in the thread brought 
forward in the previous row, ki, pi. 

Third row — si, ki, k2t, bfi, k2t, k2t, bfi, k2t. 

Fourth row — like the second. 

WIDE EDGING, NO. I. 

Cast on nineteen stitches. 

First row — kg, *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from *, 
bfi, ki. 

Second row — bfi, (this brought-forward thread is re¬ 
peated at the beginning of every other row, and forms 
the picot edge of the lace). Sbi, knit the remaining 
stitches. 

Third row — k8, *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from * bfi, 
ki, bfi, k2t. 




A R T-XEEDLE WORK. 


45 


Fourth row — bfi, sbi, bfi, sbi. Knit plain. 

Fifth row— ky, *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from *, bfr, 
ki, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t. 



Fig. 57. 


Sixth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat twice from *. Knit plain. 

Seventh row— k6, * p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from *, 
bfi, ki, fbfi, k2t, repeat twice from f. 

Eighth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat three times from *. 
Knit plain. 

Ninth row — k5, *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from * bfi, 
k 1, fbf 1, k2t, repeat three times from f. 

Tenth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat four times from *. Knit 
plain. 

Eleventh row — kzj., *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from *, 
bfi, ki, fbfi, k2t, repeat four times from f. 

Twelfth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat five times from *, 
Knit plain. 

Thirteenth row — k3, *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from *, 
bfi, ki, fbfi, k2t, repeat five times from f. 






4 6 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Fourteenth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat six times from *, 
Knit plain. 

Fifteenth row — k2, *p2t, bf2, ki, repeat twice from *, 
bfi, ki, fbfi, k2t, repeat six times from f. 

Sixteenth row — * bfi, sbi, repeat seven times from*. 
Knit plain. 

Seventeenth row — k4, *bf2, p2t, ki, repeat from *, bfi, 
k3t, k2t, fbfi, k2t, repeat five times from f. 

Eighteenth row — * bfi, sbi, repeat six times from * 
Knit plain. 

Nineteenth row — k5, * bf2, p2t, ki, repeat from *, bfi, 
k2t, k2t, fbfi, k2t, repeat four times fromf. 

Twentieth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat five times from * 
Knit plain. 

Twenty-first row — k6, *bf2, p2t, ki, repeat from *, bfi, 
k2t, k2t, fbf2, k2t, repeat three times from f. 

Twenty-second row — *bf, sbi, repeat four times from *, 
Knit plain. 

Twenty-third row— ky, *bf2, p2t, ki, repeat from *, bfi, 
k2t, k2t, fbfi, k2t, repeat twice from t- 

Twenty-fourth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat three times 
from *. Knit plain. 

Twenty-fifth row — k8, *bf2, p2t, ki, repeat from *, bfi, 
k2t, k2t, fbfi, k2t, repeat from f. 

Twenty-sixth row—*bfi, sbi, repeat twice from *. 
Knit plain. 

Twenty-seventh row — kg, *bf2, p2t, ki, repeat from *, 
bfi, k2t, k2t, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-eighth row — *bfi, sbi, repeat. Knit plain. 

Twenty-ninth row —kio, *bf2, p2t, ki. Repeat from *, 
bfi, k2t, k2t. 

Thirtieth row — bfi, sbi. Knit plain. 

Repeat these thirty rows. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


4 7 


WIDE EDGING, NO. 2. 



Fig. 58. 


Cast on twenty-six stitches. 

First row — si, p2t, bf3, p2t, p 19, K2t. 

Second row — knit every stitch, except in the threads 
brought forward always ki, pi in this row, and every 
alternate row. 

Third row — si, p2t, bf3, p2t, pi,*bf2, p2t, repeat 8 
times from *, ki. 

Fourth row —knit every stitch as in 2d row. 

Fifth row — si, p2t, bf3, p2t, p2o. 

Sixth row — bfi, knit every stitch as in 2d row. 

Seventh row — si, p2t, bf3, p2t, ki, *p2t, bf2, k2t, ki, 
repeat from * four times. 

Eighth row — bf 1, p3, k2, p3, k2, p3, k2, p3, k8. 

Ninth to the twenty-fourth row — Alternate the 7th and 















48 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


8th rows, but in every odd-numbered row (the 9th, 11th, 
etc.) add one to the number of knit stitches before *, and 
at the close of the even-numbered rows (such as the 
10th, 12th, etc.), knit one more than in the alternate row 
before the fagoting edge. 

Twenty-fifth row — s 1, p2t, bf3, p2t, k8, *p2t, bf2, k2, k 1, 
repeat three times from *, close, instead of ki, with k31. 

Twenty-sixth row — si, p2,*k2, p3, repeat twice from *, 
ki 5. 

Twenty-seventh to fortieth rows — alternate as in the 
25th and 26th rows, except that at the close of the odd- 
numbered rows, k2t instead of 3t ; and at the close of the 
even-numbered rows, the number of knit stitches before 
the fagoting, is reduced by one in each row.' 


WIDE EDGING, NO. 3. * 



Fig. 59. 


Cast on twenty stitches. 

First row — ki4, bfi ; k3t, bfi ; k2t, ki. 










A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


49 


Second row — knit every stitch. 

Third row — ki2, ket, bfi, k3, bfi, k2. 

Fourth row — like the 2d. 

Fifth row — kn, k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, ti, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2. 

Sixth row — like the 2d. 

Seventh row — kio, k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k3, bfi, k2t, 
bf i, k2. 

Eighth row — like the 2d. 

Ninth row — k9, k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k5, bfi, k2t, bfi, 
k2. 

Tenth row — like the 2d. 

Eleventh row — k8, k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k7, bfi, k2t, 
bfi, k2. 

Twelfth row — like the 2d. 

Thirteenth row — k7, k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k9, bfi, k2t, 
bfi, k2. 

Fourteenth row — like the 2d. 

Fifteenth row — k6, k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, ku, bfi, k2t, 
bfi ; k2. 

Sixteenth row — like the 2d. 

Seventeenth row — 1 < 5 , k2t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k31, bf5, 
(4 times round the needle, after bringing the thread for¬ 
ward once,) k3t, k4, bfi, kct, bfi, k2. 

Eighteenth row — like the 2d, except in the brought- 
forward thread of the former row, ki, pi, ki, pi. 

Nineteenth row—k7, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t, k9, k2t, bfi, 
k2t, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Twentieth row—like the 2d. 

Twenty-first row — k8, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t, k7, k2t, bfi, 
k2t, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Twenty-second row—like the 2d. 


50 


A R T-NEEDLEU 'ORE. 


Twenty-third row — kg, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t, 1 < 5 , k2t, bfi, 
k2t, ki. 

Twenty-fourth row — like the second. 

Twenty-fifth row — kio, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t, k3, k2t, bfi, 
k2t, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Twenty-sixth row — like the second. 

Twenty-seventh row — kii, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t, ki, k2t, 
bfi, k2t, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Twenty-eighth row — like the second. 

Twenty-ninth row—ki2 , bfi, k2t, bfi, k3t, bfi, k2t, 
bfi, k2t, ki. 

Thirtieth row — like the second. 

Thirty-first row — ki3, bfi, k2t, ki, k2t, ki, bfi, k2t, 
ki. 

Thirty-second row — like the second. This completes 
one point. Repeat. 


WIDE EDGING, NO. 4. 



Fig. 60. 


Cast on eighteen stitches. 











A R T-NEEDLE WORK . 


51 


First row — si, k2t, bf, sb2 (that is, slip the first stitch, 
k2t, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch), bf3, k2t, 
k2, bf3, k2t, k6. 

Second row — knit plain except in the brought forward 
thread, ki, pi. 

Third row — si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2, k4, bf3, k2t, k5. 

Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row — si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2t, k2. 

For the raised ball seen in the illustration, four stitches 
must be made. Take a stitch from the next chain in the 
preceding row, slip it upon the left needle, knit a stitch in 
this and cast on the rest on the left needle ; slip off the 
last of these, pass the thread from the front to the back, 
between this and the next stitch, and cast off the four 
stitches, k3, bf3, k2t, k4. 

Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row—si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2t, k4, making a 
ball as in the fifth row ; k3, bf3, k2t, k3. 

Eighth row — like the second. 

Ninth row—si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2t, k6. Make a 
ball as in fifth row, k3, bf3, k2t, k2. 

Tenth row — like the second. 

Eleventh row — si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2t, k8. Make 
a ball as in fifth row, k3, bf3, k2t, ki. 

Twelfth row — like the second. 

Thirteenth row— si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2t, kio. Make 
a ball as in fifth row, k3, bf3, k2t. 

Fourteenth row — like the second. 

Fifteenth row — si, k2t, bf3, sb2, bf3, k2t, ki2. Make 
a ball as in fifth row, k4. 

Sixteenth row — Cast off seven stitches; ki7- Repeat. 


52 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 



Cast on fifteen stitches. 

First row— si, k2 (five times alternately bfi, t2t), bfi, 
k2. 

Second row — knit every stitch. 

Third row—si, ki2, drop the next stitch of the pre¬ 
ceding row from the left needle (this is the stitch which 
was knit in the brought-forward thread of the former row), 
ki in the dropped thread of the preceding row, ki in the 
threads of the two preceding rows (*bfi, ki in both 
threads three times from *), ki in both threads making 
eight stitches in these threads, counting the threads 
brought forward between, k2. 

Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row — si, k2 (five times alternately, bfi, t2t, kio). 

Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row—like the second. 

Eighth row — bind off eight stitches, ki4_ Repeat. 






ART-NEEDLE WORK. 


53 


NARROW ROSE-LEAF EDGING. [VERY PRETTY.] 

Cast on eight stitches. 

First row — k2, bfi, k2t, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t. 

Second row — k2, pi, (in brought forward stitch of 
former row), k2, pi, ki, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Third row— k2, bfi, k2t, k6. 

Fourth row — k7, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Fifth row—k2, bfi, k2t, k2, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t. 

Sixth row — k2, pi,k2, pi, k3, bfi k2t, ki. 

Seventh row — k2, bfi, k2t, k8. 

Eighth row — kg, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Ninth row — k2, bfi, k2t, k4, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t. 

Tenth row — k2, pi, k2, pi, k5, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Eleventh row — k2, bfi, k2t, kio. 

Twelfth row — sb6, k4, bfi, k2t, ki. Repeat 


EDGING. 



Fig. 62. 


Cast on twelve stitches. 

First row—si, t2t, bf2, t2t, ti, (bfi, t2t, twice), bfi, 
ti, ti. 

Second row — si, knit every stitch except ki, pi in the 
double brought forward threads. 




54 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Third row — si, t2t, bf2, t2t, ti, k5, take up the two 
cross-threads forming the hole below, on the left-hand 
needle, and knit into them nine stitches, alternately ; ki, 
pi, till nine are made, then k2. 

Fourth row — like the second, (a stitch in each of the 
nine). 

Fifth row — si, t2t, bf2, t2t, ti, (bfi, t2t, twice), ti, 
(bfi, t2t, 7 times), k2. 

Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row—si, t2t, bf2, t2t, ti, ki6. 

Eighth row — sb, (cast off) 10, k8, pi, k2. Repeat. 


WIDE EDGING, NO. 6. 



Fig. 63. 


Cast on twenty-one stitches. 























A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


55 


First row — knit plain in this and alternate rows, ex- 
^pt in the brought forward stitch, ki, pi. 

Second row — si, (k2t, bf3, t2t, four times), k3. 

Third row — like the first. 

Fourth row — si, k3, (k2t, bf3, t2t, three times), k4, in 
the last stitch ki, pi. 

Fifth row — like the first. 

Sixth row — si, k5 (k2t, bf3, t2t, twice), k7, in the 
last stitch ki, pi. 

Seventh row — like the first. 

Eighth row — si, ky, k2t, bf3, t2t, kio, in the last 
stitch ki, pi. 

Ninth row — like the first. 

Tenth row — si, ki6, k2t, bf3, t2t, k3 (see exception at 
the end of direction for this edging). 

Eleventh row — like the first. 

Twelfth row — si, k7, k2t, bf3, t2t, kio, k2t. 

Thirteenth row — like the first. 

Fourteenth row —si, k5 (k2t, bf3, t2t, twice), k7, k2t. 
Fifteenth row — like the first. 

Sixteenth row —si, k3, (k2t, bf3, t2t, three times), k4, 
k2t. Repeat from the first row. 

Exception — In knitting the next tenth row, and in every 

alternate tenth row, knit plain. 

[An insertion to match this edging follows.] 


56 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


INSERTIONS. 

INSERTION TO MATCH NO. 6. 

Cast on twenty stitches. 

First row — knit plain. 

Second row — si, ki, (k2t, bf*3, t2t, four times), k2t. 
Third row — like the first, but ki, pi, in threads brought 
forward in previous row. 

Fourth row — si, k3, (k2t, bf3, t2t, three times), k/p 
Fifth row — like the second. 



Fig. 64. 


Sixth row — si, k5, (k2t, bf3, t2t, twice), k6. 
Seventh row—like the second. 

Eighth row— si, k7, k2t, bf3, k2t, k8. 

Ninth row — like the second. 

Tenth row — knit the whole row. 















A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


57 


Eleventh row — like the second. 

Twelfth row — like the eighth. 

Thirteenth row — like the second. 

Fourteenth row — like the sixth. 

Fifteenth row—like the second. 

Sixteenth row — like the fourth. 

Repeat the desired length. 

INSERTION NO. 2. 

Cast on twenty-four stitches. 

First row — si, bfi,k2t, k9, p4, k6, bfi, k2t. 

Second row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, (bfi, k2t, twice), k2t, 
(k2t, bfi, three times), k4, bfi, k2t. 

INSERTION NO. 2. 



Fig. 65. 


Third row —si, bfi, k2t, k8, p4, k7, bfi, k2t. 

Fourth row —si, bfi, k2t, k2, (bfi, k2t, three times) 
k2, (k2t, bfi, three times), k3, bfi, k2t. 

Fifth row — si, bfi, k 2 t, k7, p 4 , k8, bfi, k2t. 























53 


ART-NEEDLE WORK. 


Sixth row—si, bfi, k2t, k3, (bfi, k2t, three times), 
(k2t, bfi, twice), k4, bfi, k2t. 

Seventh row—si, bfi, k2t, k6, p4, k9, bfi, k2t. 

Eighth row — si, bfi, k2t, k2, (bfi,k2t, four times), k2, 
(k2t, bfi, twice), k3, bfi, k2t. 

Ninth row — si, bfi, k2t, k5, p4, kio, bfi, k2t. 

Tenth row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, (bfi, k2t, four times), k2, 
k2t, bfi, k4, bfi, k2t. j, 2 ^ 

Eleventh row—si, bfi, k4, p4, ku, bfi, k2t. 

Twelfth row — si, bfi, k2t, (bfi, k2t, five times), K2, 
k2t, bfi, k3, bfi, k2t. 

Thirteenth row — si, bfi,k2t, k3, p4, ki2, bfi, k2t. 

Fourteenth row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, (bfi, k2t, four times) 
k2, k2t, bfi, k4, bfi, k2t. 

Fifteenth row — si, bfi, k2t, k4, p4, ku, bfi, k2t. 

Sixteenth row — si, bfi, k2t, k2, (bfi, k2t, four times), 
k2, (k2t, bfi, twice), k3, bfi, k2t. 

Seventeenth row — si, bfi, k2t, k5, p4, kio, bfi, k2t. 

Eighteenth row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, (bfi, k2t, three times), 
k2, (k2t, bfi, twice), k4, bfi, k2t. 

Nineteenth row—si, bfi, k2t, k6, p4, k9, bfi, k2t. 

Twentieth row—si, bfi, k2t, k2, (bfi, k2t, three times), 
k2, (k2t, bfi, three times) k3, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-first row — si, bfi, k2t, k7, p4, k8, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-second row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, ( bfi, k2t, twice, 
k2, (k2t, bfi, three times), k4, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-third row — si, bfi, k2t, k8, p4, k7, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-fourth row — si, bfi, k2t, k2, (bfi, k2t, twice ) 
k2, (k2t, bfi, four times), k3, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-fifth row — si, bfi, k2t, k9, p4, k6, bfi, k2t. 


A R T-KEEDLE WORK 


59 


Twenty-sixth row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, bfi, k2t, k2t, (k2t, 
bfi, four times), k4, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-seventh row — si, bfi, k2t, kio, p4, k5, bfi, 
k2t. 

Twenty-eighth row — si, bfi, k2t, k2, bfi, k2t, k2, (k2t, 
bfi, five times) k3, bfi, k2t. 

Twenty-ninth row — si, bfi,k2t, kii, p4, k4, bfi, k2t. 

Thirtieth row — si, bfi, k2t, k3, bfi, k2t, k2, (k2t, bfi, 
four times), k4, bfi, k2t. 

Thirty-first row — si, bfi, k2t, kio, p4, k5, bfi, k2t. 

Thirty-second row — si, bfi, k2t, k2, (bfi, k2t, twice, 
k2, (k2t, bfi, four times), k3, bfi, k2t. Repeat. 


INSERTION NO. 3 . 



Fig. 66. 

Cast on twenty-seven stitches. 





















6o 


ART-NEEDLE WORK. 


First row— si, ki2, pi, ki3. 

Second row— si, k2, (bfi, k2t, three times), bfi, k3t, bfi, 
k3, bfi, k3, (bfi, k2t, three times,) bfi, k3- 
Third row — si, ki i, p3, k 12. 

Fourth row— si, ki, (bfi, k2t, three times), bfi, k3t, 
bfi, k5, bfi, k3t, (bfi, k2t, three times), bfi, k2t. 

Fifth row — si, kio, p5, ki 1. 

Sixth row—si, k2, (bfi, k2t, twice), bfi, k3t, bfi, k7, 
bfi, k31, (bfi, k2t, twice), bfi, k3. 

Seventh row— si, k9, p7, kio. 

Eighth row — si, ki, (bfi, k2t, twice), bfi, k3t, bfi, 
k2, k2t, bfi, pi, bfi, k2t, k2, bfi, k31, (bfi, k2t, twice), k-stp 
bfi, k2. 

Ninth row— si, k8, p4, ki, p4, k9. 

Tenth row —si, k2, bfi, k2t, bfi, k31, bfi, k2, k2t, bfi, 
p3, bfi, k2t, k2, bfi, k3t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k3. 

Eleventh row — si, k7, p4,k3, p4, k8. 

Twelfth row — si, ki, bfi, k2t, bfi, k3t, bfi, k2, k2t, 
bfi, p5, bfi, k2t, k2, bfi, k3t, bfi, k2t, bfi, k2. 

Thirteenth row — si, k6, p4, k.5, p4, k7. 

Fourteenth row — si, k2, bfi, k3t, bfi, k2, k2t, bfi, p7, 
bfi, k2t, k2, bfi, k3t, bfi, k3. 

Fifteenth row—si, k5, p4, k7, p4, k6. 

Sixteenth row — si, ki, bfi, k3t, bfi, k2, k2t, bfi,p2, 
p2t, (bfi, k2t, three times), p2, bfi, k2t, k2, bfi^k^t, bfi~ 
k2. 

Seventeenth row — si, k4, p4, k3, (in the threebrought- 
forward threads of last row), ki, pi, ki, k3, p4, k5. 

Eighteenth row — si,k2, (bfi, k2t, twice), k2, bfi, p2t, 
p5, p2t, bfi, k2, (k2t, bfi, twice), bfi, k3. 

Nineteenth row — si, k5, p4, k7, p4, k6. 


A R T-NEEDLE IVOR A'. 


61 


Twentieth row — si, ki, (bfi,k2t, three times), k2, bfi, 
P 2 h P 3 > P 2t » bfi, k2, k2t, (bfi, k2t, twice), bfi, k2. 

Twenty-first row — si, k6, p4, k5, p4, k7- 

Twenty-second row — si, k2, (bfi, k2, three times) k2, 
bfi, p2t, pi, p2t, bfi, K2, (k2t, bfi, three times), k$. 

Twenty-third row — si, k7, p4, k3, p4, k8. 

Twenty-fourth row — si, ki, (bfi, k2t, four times), k2, 
bfi, p3t, bfi, k2, (k2t, bfi, four times), k2. 

Twenty-fifth row — si, k8, p4, ki, p4, k9. 

Twenty-sixth row — si, k2, (bfi, k2t, four times), k5, 
(k2t, bfi, four times), k3. 

Twenty-seventh row — si, k^ p7, kio. 

Twenty eighth row — si, ki (bfi, k2t, five times), k3, 
(k2t, bfi, five times), k2. 

Twenty-ninth row — si, kio, p5, ki i. 

Thirtieth row — si, k2, (bfi, k2t, five times), ki (k2t, 
bfi, five times), k3. 

Thirty-first row — si, kn, p3, ki2. 

Thirty-second row — si, ki, (bfi, k2t, five times), bfi, 
k3t, bfi, (k2t, bfi, five times), k2. Repeat. 


INSERTION NO. 4. 

Cast on thirty-two stitches. 

The first and last eight of each row alike. 

First row — si, k3, bf3, p2t, bf2, p2t, k2, (bfi, k2t, three 
times), k8, bf3, p2t, bf2, p2t, k4. 

Second row — the first eight like those of the first row, 
k8, the last eight like the last of first row. 

Third row — first eight like those of first row, k3, (bfi, 
k2t, three times), k7. Finish like first row. 


62 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row—first eight like first row, k4, (bfi, k2t, three 
times), k6, finish like first row. 

Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row — first eight as usual, k5, (bfi, k2t, three 
times), k5, finish as before. 

Eighth row — like the second. 

Ninth row — first eight as usual, k6, (bfi, k2t, three 
times), k4, finish as before. 

Tenth row — like the second. 

Eleventh row— after the first eight, k7, (bfi, k2t, three 
times), k2, finish as before. 

Twelfth row, thirteenth row, fourteenth row, fifteenth 
row, sixteenth row, like the second. Repeat. 


INSERTION NO. 5. 

Cast on twenty-one stitches. 

First row — si, k2, *(bfi, k2t, twice), k2t. Repeat twice 
from *. 

Second row — si, k 2 , * (bfi, k 2 t, twice), pi, ki. Repeat 

from except k2, instead of pi, ki, for the last stitches. 
Repeat. 

In order to make the cortier, at the close of the inner 
side to be turned in, k2t in each alternate row, and in the 
next following row take two stitches together, that is, sbi. 


[FOR FIG. 67, SEE PAGE 03.] 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK 


63 


INSERTION NO. 5 . 



Fig. 67. 


[For description see p. 62. 


NARROW INSERTION. 

Cast on fourteen stitches. 

First row — si, k2, bfi, k2t, k2, cast on four stitches (in 
loops around the needle, as in Fig. 15), 1<4, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Second row — si, k2, bfi, k2t, k2t, k4, k2t, k2, bfi, k2t, 
ki. 

Third row — si, k2, bfi, k2t, k8, bfi, k2t, ki. 

Fourth row — si, k2, bfi, k2t, k8, bfi, k2t, ki. 




















6 4 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Fifth row — si, k2, bfi, k2t, k2t, k2, k2t, k2, bfi, k2t, ki. 
Repeat. 


NARROW INSERTION. 



Fig. 68. 


NARROW EDGING. 

Cast on thirteen stitches. 

First row — p3, k8, p2. 

Second row — sbi, (that is slip the next stitch, knit 
the next, and draw the slipped stitch over), bf2, p8, bfi, 
sb2, (that is, slip the next stitch, knit the next two, and 
pass the slipped stitch over). 

Third row— (In the first stitch ki, pi), then kio, pi. 



NARROW EDGING. 


Fig. 69. 


















A R T-NEEDLE H T ORK. 


65 


Fourth row — si, ki, bf2, p2t, bfi, k$. 

Fifth row—(in the first stitch ki, pi), then p3, k6, p3* 
Sixth row -—si, k2, bf2, p2t, p2, p2t, bfi, k$. 

Seventh row — (in the first stitch ki, pi), then p5, k4, P4. 
Eighth row— si, k3, bf2, (p2t, twice), bfi, ki, k2t, bf2, 
k2t, k2. 

Ninth row—si, p2, (in the brought forward threads of 
last row ki, pi), then p3, k2, p5. 

Tenth row — si, k2t, bf2, p4, bfi, k2t, k3, k2t. 

Eleventh row — si, p4, k6, p3. 

Twelfth row—si, k2t, bf2, p6, bfi, k2t, ki, k2t. Repeat. 


PLAIN FLUTED EDGING. 

Cast on any number of stitches desired. 

First row— knit every stitch. 

Second row — pearl all but three stitches, leave these on 
the needle, turn and 

Third row — knit every stitch left. 

Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row — like the third. 

Sixth row — pearl all the stitches. 

Seventh row — knit three, pearl the rest. 

Eighth row — knit all but three, leave them on the 
needle, turn and 

Ninth row — pearl the stitches left on the needle. 

Tenth row — like the eighth. 

Eleventh row—like the ninth. 

Twelfth row — knit all but three, pearl three. Repeat. 


66 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


SCOLLOPED FLUTED EDGING. 

Cast on twenty-two stitches. 

First row — knit every stitch, the last two k2t. 

Second row — pearl every stitch. 

Third row — cast off (sb), leaving eleven stitches on 
the needle. Knit these, the last two, k2t. 

Fourth row — knit every stitch. (Make one stitch, slip¬ 
ping a loop over the needle, this is done only the first 
time the fourth row is knit, after the first time), knit one 
in the end of the long piece behind, cast off in previous 
third row, forming a scollop. 

Fifth row — pearl every stitch, but the two last p2t. 

Sixth row — knit every stitch, add twelve, looping them 
as in Fig. 15. 


OPEN FLUTED EDGING. 



Fig. 70. 


Cast on sixteen stitches. 

First row — si, (bfi, k2t, twice), pio. In the last stitch 
ki, pi. 

Second row — knit each stitch. 

















A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


6 7 


Third row —si, (bfi, k2t, twice), pu, in the last stitch 
ki, pi. 

Fourth row — like the second. 

Fifth row — si, (bfi, k 2 t, twice), pi, bf 2 , p 2 t, six times. 
Sixth row — like the second. 

Seventh row — si, (bfi, k 2 t, twice), pi 1, p 2 t. 

Eighth row — like the second. 

Ninth row — si, (bfi, k2t, twice), pio, p 2 t. 

Tenth row — like the second. 

Eleventh row — si, (bfi, k2t, twice), pi, kio. 

Twelfth row— si, p 9 , leave the rest on the needle, turn. 
Thirteenth row— si, kg. 

Fourteenth row — like the twelfth. 

Fifteenth row — like the thirteenth. 

Sixteenth row — si, p 9 , k 6 . 

EDGING FOR SHAWL OR BLANKET, IN WORSTED. 

Cast on nine stitches. 

First row — knit. 

Second row — si,k 2 , bf 2 , k 6 , pi. 


EDGING FOR SHAWL. 





Fig. 71. 





68 


A R T-NEEDLE IVOR A'. 


Third row — si, knit in brought-forward thread, kI, pi. 

Fourth and fifth rows — knit in fourth row, pearl last 
stitch in fifth, slip first stitch. 

Sixth row — si, 1 < 2 , bf 2 , k 2 t, bf 2 , k 5 , pi. 

Seventh row —like the third. 

Eighth row—knit all but last, pi. 

Ninth row — cast off, sb five stitches, k 8 . Repeat. 

INSERTIONS AND EDGINGS. 

These patterns are very useful done in fine gray twine, 
such as is used in Macrame-work. 

FOR A TIDY. 

Knit three stripes of any of the wide insertion-patterns, 
attach them with two stripes of cardinal ribbon two inches 
wide, and knit an edging for the top and bottom. The 
illustrations will show two edgings that can be used to 
match the insertions for this purpose. 


A R T-NEEDLE W ORE. 


69 


CHAPTER IV. 

AFFGHANS. 

Any of the patterns given here can be made serviceable 
for affghans. The simplest method is to knit stripes back 
and forward in plain knitting, and to embroider patterns 
in cross-stitch upon the stripes. 

ROMAN SCARF AFFGHAN. 

To be done in plain back-and-forward knitting, as at 
P'ig. 12. The colors used are those of the Roman scarf, 
and should be done in the order given below, with dark 
stripes between each parti-colored stripe ; or, the division- 
stripes can, if preferred, be made of light blue or pink. 

A “ turn ” signifies two rows ; a row forward, turn and 
knit back. 

FOR ROMAN SCARF AFFGHAN. 

10 turns red, 10 turns red, 


I 

u 

black, 

1. 

a 

black, 

I 

u 

gold, 

1 

u 

gold, 

I 

u 

black, 

1 

u 

black, 

I 

u 

gold, 

1 

u 

gold, 

I 

<t 

black, 

1 

u 

black, 

I 

u 

blue, 

i 

u 

red, 

I 

u 

red, 

1 

u 

white, 

I 

a 

black. 

1 

a 

gold. 


/o 


A K T-NEEDL E WORK. 


io turns 

green, 

IO 

turns blue, 

i 

a 

black, 

i 

u 

black, 

i 

u 

gold, 

i 

ll 

gold, 

i 

il 

black, 

i 

u 

black, 

i 

ll 

gold 

i 

u 

gold, 

i 

l l 

black, 

i 

ll 

black, 

I 

a 

green, 

i 

u 

white, 

i 

u 

white, 

i 

u 

green, 

i 

n 

red. 

i 

(l 

red. 

io turns black, 

io turns 

white, 

i 

a 

gold, 

i 

ll 

black, 

i 

u 

black, 

i 

u 

gold, 

i 

u 

gold, 

i 

il 

black, 

i 

u 

black, 

i 

ll 

gold, 

i 

n 

blue, 

i 

ll 

black, 

i 

ll 

red, 

i 

ll 

green, 

i 

u 

green, 

i 

ll 

white, 

i 

ll 

black. 

i 

ll 

blue. 


PERSIAN AFFGHAN. 

This is pretty, and not difficult. To be done in scar¬ 
let, gold, green, violet, dark crimson, and blue wools. Six 
skeins black and six white filoselle. 

Cast on twenty-two stitches. Knit back and forward 
any length you like, and cast off. Now select any simple 
wool-work pattern — a palm is best — or any Moorish 
pattern, and work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 
five on one stripe and six on the next, so that they do not 
come exactly in a line one with another. The pattern 
ought to be worked in black, or black and white filoselle. 
Join, and add a fringe. 


A R T-NEEDLE IVOR A'. 


7 1 


SCOTCH BABY-BLANKET, OR SHAWL. 

Cast on fourteen stitches ; plain knitting until you have 
attained the required length. The only difficulty is in the 
casting off. You begin by slipping the first stitch and 
knitting the second, which must be very loose indeed, 
almost an inch in length ; pass the slipped stitch over. 
Now drop the third stitch, and let it run the whole length 
of the knitting. Continue thus. The dropped stitches 
are allowed to run down, and they form a kind of loop- 
pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe at top and 
bottom. 

This is very pretty for a baby-blanket or straight shawl. 
Cast on eighty-four stitches. Drop every seventh stitch. 

ANOTHER. 

Cast on nineteen and rib crossways in nines. When 
long enough, drop the middle stitch. Cast on nine in 
white, rib another stripe in the same way, and drop the 
middle stitch. Crochet with black along every colored 
stripe, and join to the white with maize or orange. 

HEARTH-RUG. 

This must be made in stripes and then sewn together. 
Cast on with strong twine and steel pins, No. 12, twenty- 
five stitches. Have ready narrow pieces of cloth, about 
two and three quarter inches long and half an inch broad. 
Knit one plain row. Second row slip one ; * put a strip 
of cloth between the two needles and knit a stitch ; then 
turn the end of cloth up again so that both ends may 
come on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. 


72 


A R T-NEEDLEIV ORE. 


The next row plain. You must pull this knitting rather 
tight. When one yard and five inches are done, cast off. 
Do a second similar strip, and sew them together. 

Keep all the black snips for the border, for which cast 
on eighteen, and knit strips long enough for each side. 
If your twine is too fine, the knitting will curl up. 

The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the 
pound of scraps. It makes a pretty border to put scarlet 
strips at regular intervals. Sew a piece of sacking at the 
back for a lining. 

Ravelled threads of tapestry carpeting can be used in 
the same way ; the threads should be inserted, however, 
every three stitches, and knit back in the same way, being 
sure to alternate the ravelled threads, and turn them over 
to the right side. 


LOOP KNITTING. 

This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty 
and warm for quilts, couvrettes, linings iff sleeping-socks, 
&c. 

Cast on any number of stitches. Do not slip the first 
stitch, but always knit it. 

First row — plain knitting. 

Second row — put the wool round the needle as if you 
were going to knit a plain stitch, but instead of knitting, 
let the wool hang straight down over the forefinger of the 
left hand ; wind it round and put it for the second time over 
the right needle. Wind the wool a second time round the 
finger, and for the third time put it round the needle ; and 
now knit this stitch, which ought to have the appearance 


A R T-NEEDLEWORK. 


73 


of three in one. Repeat. The next row plain. Do about 
six rows plain, and then repeat with the loops ; of course 
you must only make them on one side of the knitting, and 
they will require a little pulling to keep them in the right 
place. This is useful for slippers. 

FRINGE. 

Berlin wool or cotton. Pins, No. 14. 

Cast on fourteen stitches. Knit the desired length, cast 
off four stitches, and then unravel all the rest. 

WOOLLEN FRINGE. [VERY HANDSOME.] 

« 

Have some ends ready cut, and cast on seven stitches. 

First row — knit one, bring the wool forward, knit two 
together ; take one of the lengths and double it, hang it on 
the right-hand needle, knit two stitches, bring the double 
ends of wool forward, knit one stitch, put the end back, 
and knit the last stitch. 

Second row — knit every stitch plain, taking up with 
the fourth stitch the loop of fringe wool, and being care¬ 
ful not to split either of them. Continue to the end of the 
row plain. 

Third row — the same as the first. 

Fourth row — the same as the second. Repeat. 


LADY’S WINTER PETTICOAT. 

This is an exceedingly warm and comfortable one, and 
more durable than flannel ) fifteen skeins of petticoat-yarn 
and bone pins, No. 5, are required. 


74 


A R T-XEEDL E WORK. 


Begin with scarlet for one inch, then two inches of 
white, then two inches of scarlet ; the rest all white. 

Cast on one hundred and twenty stitches, and knit twen¬ 
ty-three inches plain, then rib by doing two plain and two 
pearl for twenty-four rows. 

Cast off. Do another breadth ; and for the third and 
fourth breadths you must, after the first twelve rows, 
decrease at the beginning and end of each row about 
every two inches. If you do not like to have a gored 
breadth, do this one exactly the same as the other two. 
Join the breadths together. Knit any border for edging, 
or make ribs of brioche stitch, in scarlet, and sew it to the 
petticoat. 


TWO BRIOCHE CUSHIONS. 

The first of these patterns is a very simple one, and is 
both quick and effective. Use any two colors which con¬ 
trast well. 

Double Berlin and pins No. 5 may be used, casting on 
forty-five stitches. 

First row — bf, si, ki. Repeat. 

Second row — the rest of the cushion is done in brioche 
stitch (see page 23) ; leave the last three stitches un¬ 
knitted, turn and go on with the brioche stitch. 

Fourth row — leave the last six unknitted and turn. 

Sixth low leave the last nine unknitted, and soon, 
three more every time you get to the end of the row. Of 
course, you must only leave the unknitted stitches at one 
end of the knitting. 

When you have worked off all the stitches, join the next 


A R T-NEEDLEWORK. 


Pm m* 

/} 

shade and knit the whole row. The next row like the 
second. 

This makes the knitting come into a gradual round. 
When large enough sew it up, and do a second in the 
same way. Make a round pillow lined with hair or 
feathers, and put between the knitting, which must be 
sown together like a silk pincushion. Draw in the centre, 
which may be finished off with an ornamental button ; 
sew a silk cord round the edge. 

ANOTHER. 

You will require three skeins yellow, two white, three 
scarlet, three purple, three green, six grey, of double Ber¬ 
lin wool. Pins No 5. 

Cast on sixty-four stitches with yellow. 

First row—bf, si, ki. 

Second row—join the white. The remainder is all 
brioche stitch ; knit two rows, then two yellow rows. 

Join the grey ; knit eighteen brioche (this is really fifty- 
four stitches, remember), leaving fourteen on the other 
needle unknitted. Turn back and knit four brioche ; turn 
again and knit five brioche ; turn and knit six. Continue 
taking three more stitches every time you turn, until you 
come to the end of your needles. Then do another yellow 
and white stripe. 

Join the scarlet, and work as before. There have to be 
eighteen sections altogether, a grey one separating the 
bright-colored ones. 

If desired, only the top need be worked, and the lin¬ 
ing drawn together about a foundation made of a round 
piece of wood or stiff card-board. 


76 


/: R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


FOR A COMMON QUILT. 

Cast on with No. 6 three-thread cotton two stitches, use 
pins about No. 14, and increase every row. Do six rows 
of plain and six of pearl, so as to make lengthway ribs. 
When half a square is done, decrease at the beginning of 
every row. When a sufficient number of squares are 
finished, join together. 


COUNTERPANE - MALTESE PATTERN. 

This is a handsome pattern, but it must be knitted much 
tighter than ordinary work. Twist the cotton twice round 
the little finger, and you will thus be enabled to draw the 
stitches quite tight. 

When your squares are done, sew them together at the 
plain part, at the beginning, where the increasings were 
made. They ought to make a perfect Maltese cross. Cast 
on one stitch, and increase every row. Knit until you 
have twenty-seven stitches on your needle. This com¬ 
pletes the first division. 

Twenty-eighth row — make one, pearl the rest. 

Twenty-ninth row — make one, knit the remainder. 

Thirtieth row — make one, pearl one, * put thread be¬ 
fore the needle, pearl two together. Repeat from *. 

Thirty-first row — make one, knit the rest. 

Thirty-second row — make one, pearl the rest. 

Do the thirty-third and thirty-fourth rows like the thirty- 
first, and now the second division is done. 

Thirty-fifth row— make 1, * k2, p2. Repeat from *. 


A R T-NEEDL E WORK. 


77 


Thirty-sixth row — bfi, * p2, k2. Repeat from *. Knit 
the last stitch. 

Thirty-seventh row — bfr, ki, * p2, k2. Repeat from *. 

Thirty-eighth row —bfi, pi, * k2, p2. Repeat from *. 

Thirty-ninth row — bfi, * p2, ke. Repeat from *. 

Fortieth row — bfi, * k2, p2. Repeat from *. Pearl 
the last stitch. 

Forty-first row — bfi, pearl the rest. 

Forty-second row — bfi, pearl the rest. 

P'orty-third row — now you begin to decrease. Knit 
two together, knit the rest. 

P'orty-fourth row— p2t, pearl the rest. 

Forty-fifth row — k2t, bfi. Repeat alternately. 

Forty-sixth row — p2t, pearl the rest. 

P'orty-seventh row—k2 t, knit the rest. 

P^orty-eighth row — p2t, pearl the rest. 

P'orty-ninth row — like the forty-eighth. 

Fiftieth row — now you do the third division again of 
two plain, two pearl, according to the pattern ; always de¬ 
creasing at the beginning. In the last row of this division 
you knit every stitch. You ought to have twenty- 
seven stitches, and the rest of the square is plain knit¬ 
ting. 

It is an improvement after the quilt is finished, to run 
blue ribbon round the holes which surround the cross, to 
define it, and bring it out more clearly. 


78 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


CANADIAN CLOUD. 

Wooden pins, No. i ; ten skeins of white and two of 
scarlet Shetland wool. 

Cast on two hundred stitches, and knit backwards and 
forwards for two and a half yards. Cast off. Now with 
the scarlet, crochet a border at the two sides. Double the 
cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends, and 
finish off with a large tassel, made in the following way : 
Double a skein of white wool twice, then tie it round very 
tightly with strong wool, about two inches from the end ; 
cut the other ends, and join the cloud and tassel together 
with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the 
cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the 
tassel. 


ROSE-BUD PATTERN. 

Pins No. 13 and coarse cotton. 

Cast on twenty-one stitches. 

First row — knit the first stitch, and ki, p2, ki, bfi, ki, 
si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, ki, pi, ki, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, ki, 
bf, knit the last stitch. 

Second row — ki, p3, ki, p2, ki, p2, ki, p4, k2, pi, knit 
the last. 

Third row—si, ki, p2, ki, bfi, ki, bfi, si, ki, sbi, pi, 
k2t, pi, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, sbi, ki, bfi, the last plain. 

P'ourth row — si, p4, ki, pi, ki, pi, ki, p5, k2, pi, 
knit the last. 

% 

Fifth row —si, ki, p2, ki, bfi, k3, bfi, si, k2t, sbi, pi, 
si, k2t, sbi, bf 1, k3, bfi, knit the last. 

Sixth row —si, p6, ki, p7, k2, pi, knit the last. 


79 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 

i 

Seventh row — si, ki, p2, ki, bfi, k5, bfi, si, k2t, sbi, 
bfi, k5, bfi, knit the last. 

Eighth row — ki, pi6, k2, pi, knit the last plain. Re¬ 
peat from the first row again. 

This edging would match the border given at page 35. 



ROSE-LEAF PATTERN. 


COUNTERPANE BORDER. 

Cast on seventeen stitches for every scollop, and knit a 
plain row. 

First row — k2, * k2t, k6, bfi, k 1, bfi, k6, k2t. Re¬ 
peat from *. 

Second row — pearl. 

Third row — like the first. 

Fourth row — pearl. 

Fifth row — like the first. 

Sixth row — plain knitting. 

Seventh row — pearl. 

Eighth row—plain knitting. 

Begin again from the first row. 










So 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


ARROW PATTERN IN STRIPES. (VERY EASY.) 

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according to 
the width you require. We will say thirteen. Put the 
wool before the needle and knit six plain stitches. This 
makes seven stitches on the right-hand needle. Knit two 
together, the rest plain. Every row alike. 


LATTICE PATTERN. 

This pattern is in sixes, and you must have two plain 
stitches at the beginning and end of every row, to form 
a border: these must always be knitted plain. There 
must be an even number of stitches, twenty-two, twenty- 
eight, thirty-four, according to the width required. Forty- 
six is a good number, and will make seven lattices, six 
stitches to each lattice. 

This is very handsome for afifghans in stripes of two or 
more colors, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the 
latter, cast on in white yarn, one hundred and ten stitches, 
on long wooden pins, No. 6. If when finished you wish 
it larger, put a border in rose-bud pattern. For an afifghan 
cast on one stitch with Germantown yarn and coarse bone 
pins. Plain knitting, increasing at the commencement of 
every row, until you have twenty-two. 

First row — knit the twenty-two stitches plain. 

Second row — knit two for the border. * Knit one, 
putting the wool three times round the needle. Repeat 
from *. 

j » . 4 

Third row—knit two for the border. * Take off six 


A R T-NEEDL E WORK. 


81 


long stitches, and pass the first three over the second 
three, slip back to left-hand needle, but do not let the lat¬ 
ter run off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 
six stitches plainly, beginning with the second three. Re¬ 
peat from *. 

This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the re¬ 
verse, as it merely consists in putting three stitches over 
another three, and then knitting these six afterwards. 

Do two plain rows, and repeat from second row. 

When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to 
match the commencement, and finish off the points with 
tassels. 

The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different 
pattern, only remember to make the points as described 
above. 


COUNTERPANE. [LAUREL LEAF PATTERN.] 

Knitting cotton, and pins No. 14 or 15, Bell guage. 

This quilt is made in squares, and joined afterwards in 
such a manner that the points of the leaves meet. 

Cast on one, thread forward at the beginning of every 
row. Knit two rows. 

Fourth row — bf, ki. Repeat from *. 

Fifth row — you ought now to have six stitches, ki, p3, 
k2. 

Sixth row —k3, bf, ki, bf, k.3. 

Seventh row — k2, p5, k3. 

Eighth row — k5, bf, ki, bf, k5. 

Ninth row — k3, p7, kq. 

Tenth row — k7, bf, ki, bf, knit the rest. 


82 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK . 


Eleventh row—kq., p9, k5. 

Knit the twelfth row. 

Thirteenth row —k5, p9, knit the rest. Continue in 
this way, every time knitting one more, and always pearl¬ 
ing the nine. The alternate rows plain. 

Twenty-second row — kio, si, ki, sbi, k5,k2t, the rest 
plain. 

Twenty-third row — kio, p7, knit the remainder. 

Twenty-fourth row —ku, si, ki, sbi, k3, k2t, plain. 

Twenty-fifth row — ku, p5, plain. 

Twenty-sixth row — ki2, si, ki, sbi, ki, k2t, plain. 

Twenty-seventh row — ki2, p3, plain. 

Twenty-eighth row — k13, si, k2t, sbi. This finishes 
the leaf. The other half of the square is in ribs, decreas- 
ins: at the beginning of every row, thus: pi row, ki row, 
pi row, k2 rows, pi row. 

WHEAT-EAR PATTERN. 

Cast on seventeen for every pattern, and four over. Do 
two plain stitches at the beginning and end of every row. 

Do four plain rows. 

First row of pattern — k2t, k6, bf, ki, bf, k6, k2t. 

Second row — pearl. 

% 

Repeat these rows three times. 

Ninth row — plain knitting. 

Tenth row —pearl. 

Eleventh row — k2t, k2, bf, ki, bf, ki, si, ki, sbi, ki, 
k2t, ki, bf, k2, k2t. 

Twelfth row— pearl. 

Repeat these two rows three times. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


83 


Nineteenth row — jolain knitting. 

Twentieth row—pearl. 

Now go back to the first row of pattern. 

FEATHER PATTERN. 

This is a very old pattern indeed ; but old friends are 
often the best, so I give it without apology. 

It takes twenty-five stitches to form a pattern. 

Cast on fifty or more stitches, and knit two plain rows. 
First row of pattern — k2t four times, * bf, ki. Repeat 
from * seven times more, then k2t four times, and pearl the 
last. 

Second row — pearl. 

Third row — plain. 

Fourth row— plain. 

Repeat from first row of pattern. 

TALISMAN PATTERN. 

Twenty stitches are required for every pattern. 

Do two rows of plain knitting before beginning it. 

First row—p8 , k2, p8, k2. 

Second row — p2, k8, p2, k8. 

Third row— plain knitting. 

Fourth row — pearl. 

Fifth row—p3 , k2, p8, k2, p5. 

Sixth row— k5, p2, k8, p2, k3. 

Seventh row — plain knitting. 

Eighth row — plain knitting. 

Go back to the first row. 


8 4 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


EYELET PATTERN. 


Cast on in sevens. 

First row — bf, si, ki, sbi, k5. 

Second row — pearl. 

Third row— bf, si, ki, sbi, ki, p3, ki. 

Fourth row — pi, ki, bf, k2t, p3. 

Fifth row — bf, si, k i, sb i, k i, p3, k i. 

Sixth row — pearl. 

Seventh row — bf, si, ki, sbi, k5. 

Eighth row — pearl. 

Go back to the third row. 

This can be made into a handsome couvrette, by castin 
on the required number of stitches in white, and runnin 
narrow blue ribbon down the holes ; put ribbon bows at 
.the corners. 


LORNE PATTERN. 

Cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by 
■five and two over, to enable you always to knit the first 
and last stitches plain. 

First row —k2, bf, k3t, bf. 

Second row — p3, k2. 

Third row — p2, k3- 

VICTORIA PATTERN. 

Cast on any number divisible by six and two over, so as 
to always knit the first and last stitch plain. 

First row —bf, si, k2t, sbi, bf, k3. 


crq aq 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


S5 


Second row —plain knitting. 

Third row — k3, bf, si,k2t, sbi, bf. 
Fourth row — plain knitting. 


ZIGZAG PATTERN. 

Cast on any number divisible by nine. 

First row — bf, k3, k2t, k4. 

Second row—plain knitting. 

Third row — bf, k3, k2t, k4. 

Fourth row — plain knitting. Repeat from the first row. 

Ninth row — ki, bf, k3, si, ki, sbi, k3. 

Tenth row — plain knitting. 

Eleventh row — k2, bf, k3, si, ki, sbi, k2. 

Twelfth row—plain knitting. 

Thirteenth row — k3, bf, 1<3, si, ki, sbi, ki. 

Fourteenth row — plain - knitting. 

Fifteenth row — k3, then begin again at the first row. 

If you wish the pattern to lie more flat and even, pearl 
the alternate two, instead of knitting them. It makes a 
very good border, too ; begin with — knit a row, pearl a 
row, knit a row ; then commence the pattern, and pearl 
instead of knitting the intermediate rows. 


86 


ART-NEEDLE WORK . 


BORDERS. 

For a Shetland shawl the Feather Pattern is very pretty, 
and it makes a scollop at the part which is cast off. Pick 
up the stitches for the first side ; increase at the begin¬ 
ning of every row, until the knitting is deep enough. 
You must remember always to pearl or knit these extra 
increased stitches, and to begin the feather at the proper 
stitch, or it will spoil the pattern. When you have cast 
off the first side, pick up the stitches on the second side, 
and proceed in the same manner. Either knit in the in¬ 
creased stitches at the corner, or sew them up afterwards. 
When all four sides are completed, do one round of 
crochet ; but should you not like that, it will do very well 
without. 

% 

The following is also a pretty border. 

Cast on any number of stitches in fourteens, and add 
two over. Knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row. 

First row of pattern — ki, * ki, bf, k4, si, ki, sbi, ki, 
k2t, k4, bf. Repeat from *. Knit the last stitch. 

Second row — This and every alternate row is pearled. 

Third row — ki, * k2, bf, k3, si, ki, sbi, ki, k2t, ki, 
bf, ki. Repeat from *. Knit the last stitch. 

Fifth row — ki, * k3, bf, k2, si, ki, sbi, ki, k2t, k2, 
bf, k2. Repeat from *. Knit the last stitch. 

Seventh row — ki, * k4, bf, ki, si, ki, sbi, ki, k2t, ki, 
bf, k3. Repeat from *. Knit the last stitch. 

Ninth row — ki, * k5, bf, si, ki, sbi, ki, k2t, bf, k4. 
Repeat from *. Knit the last stitch. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


S7 


Pearl a row, then go back to the first row. 

You can run ribbon or some bright-colored coarse wool 
up and down these holes ; or leave it plain. 


PINCUSHION. 

Tiny bolster pincushions can be made in just the same 
way as the larger cushions. They are useful for hanging 
on a gentleman’s looking-glass. Four pins, No. 16, and 
bright blue Berlin wool, or coarse scarlet purse-twist. 

With the former cast on twelve stitches on the first pin, 
and six on the two others. 

First round — plain. 

Second round — * ki, bf, si, ki, sbi, ki, k2t, bf. Re¬ 
peat from * 

Third round — plain knitting. 

Fourth round — * k2, bf, si, k2t, sbi, bf, ki. Repeat 
from *. 

Repeat the third and fourth rounds alternately for five 
inches. Make up over a bolster of blue silk, ending with 
ribbon bows ; use ribbon for cord to hang it by. 

With silk, cast on twelve stitches on two needles, and six 
on the third. 


88 


A R T-NEEDLE H r ORK. 


WINDING WOOL. 

An old-fashioned way of winding wool was to make the 
end of the wool come from the middle. This is managed 
in the following way : Wind a little loosely round your 
fingers, then take it off and wind the rest of the skein 
round the end of this loose piece. You must always let 
the end of the piece (which you had wound round your 
fingers) stick out at the end of the ball. When you have 
wound all your skein, pull out the tuft at the end, and 
the rest of the wool will all pull out from the middle. 
Fold in the other outside end with your finger, so as not 
to have two ends appearing. 


ART-NEEDLE WORK. 


89 


CHAPTER V. 

THREE PATTERNS FOR SHAWLS. 

SHETLAND SHAWL, NO. I. 

• Six ounces of wool. Needles, No. 7, Bell guage. 

Cast on two hundred and twenty-eight stitches. 

Knit two plain rows, and at the beginning and end of 
each row, knit two plain stitches, to form an edge. 

First row — bf, ki, bf, kr, si, ket, sbi, ki. Repeat. 

Second row — pearl, except the two stitches at the be¬ 
ginning and end, which are always to be knitted. 

Third row — bf, k3, bf, si, k2t, sbi. Repeat. 

Fourth row — pearled. 

Fifth row — ki, si, k2t, sbi, ki, bf, ki, bf. Repeat. 

Sixth row — pearled. 

Seventh row — si, k2t, sbi, bf, k3, bfi at the end of the 
fifth and seventh rows before knitting the edge stitches, 
bf. Repeat. 

Eighth row — pearled. 

Repeat these eight rows thirty-six times, which will 
make the shawl square, then commence the following 
border. 


BORDER FOR SHAWL, NO. I. 

First row— bf, k2t, k7, k2t, bf, ki. Repeat. 
Second row — plain knitting. 

Third row —ki, bf, k2t, k5, k2t, bf, ki. Repeat. 
Fourth row — plain knitting. 


90 


A R T-NEEDL E WORK. 


Fifth row — bf, k2t, bf, k2t, k3, k2t, bf, k2t, bf, ki. Re¬ 
peat. 

Sixth row—plain knitting. 

Seventh row — ki, bf, k2t, bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, k2t, bf, 
k2. Repeat. 

Eighth row — plain knitting. 

Ninth row— bf, k2t, bf, k2t, bf, si, k2t, sbi, bf, k2t, bf, 
k2t, bf, ki. Repeat. 

Tenth row— plain knitting. 

Eleventh row — k2t, bf, k2t, bf, k3, bf, k2t, bf, k2t, ki. 
Repeat. 

Twelfth row — plain knitting. 

Thirteenth row— ki, * bf, k2t, bf, k5, bf, k2t, bf, si, k2t, 
sbi. Repeat from *. 

Fourteenth row — plain knitting. 

Fifteenth row—ki, * k2t, bf, k7, bf, k2t, ki. Repeat 
from *. 

Sixteenth row — plain knitting. 

Seventeenth row — k2t, * bf, k9, bf, si, k2t, sbi. Repeat 
from *. 

One end of the shawl is now finished. Cast off loosely, 
then take up the loops on one side of the shawl, and knit 
two and make one to the end of the needle. To increase 
the number of stitches, knit the seventeen rows to corre¬ 
spond with the bottom, then cast off, and do the other side 
in the same way. 


A R T-AEEDLE WORK. 


9 1 


EDGING FOR SHAWL, NO. I. 

Cast on seventeen stitches. 

First row — k3, bf, k2t, ki, bf, k3t, ki, bf, ki, bf, ki, 
k2t, bf2, k2t, ki. 

Second row— k3, pi, ki, p6, ki, bf, k2t, ki, bf, k2t, ki. 

Third row — k3, bf, k2t, ki, bf, k3t, bf, k3, bf, k2t, bf2, 
k2t, bf2, k2. 

Fourth row — k3, pi, k2, pi, ki, p6, ki, bf, k2t, ki, bf, 
k2t, ki. 

Fifth row — k3, bf, k2t, ki, bf, k2t, bf, ki, si, k2t, sbi, 
ki, bf, ki, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t, ki. 

Sixth row — k3, pi, k2, pi, k2, pi, ki, p6, ki, bf, k2t, 
ki, bf, k2t, ki. 

Seventh row — k3, bf, k2t, ki, bf, k2t, ki, bf, si, k2t, 
sbi, bf, ki2. 

Eighth row— Cast off seven stitches, k3, p6, ki, bf, k2t, 
ki, bf, k2t, ki. 

Repeat these eight rows two hundred times, and then 
you will have sufficient for the shawl, which must be 
divided equally for each side, putting it on a little fuller 
at the corners. 


SHETLAND SHAWL, NO. 2. 

Six ounces of Shetland wool, or, if a warmer shawl is 
required, twelve ounces of Andalusian. Needles, No. 7, 
Bell guage. 

Cast on two hundred and sixty-four stitches. 


92 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Knit two plain rows, and at the beginning and end of 
every needle knit two edge stitches. 

First row — bf, ki, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, ki, pi, ki, si, 
ki, sbi, pi, k2t, ki, bf, ki, (bf, k2t, three times). Repeat. 

Second row — pio, ki, p2, ki, p2, ki, p3- Repeat. 

Third row—bf, ki, bf, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, pi, si, ki, 
sbi, pi, k2t, bf, ki, bf, ki, (bf, k2t, three times). 
Repeat. 

Fourth row — pi i, ki, pi, ki, pi, ki, p4« Repeat. 

Fifth row—bf, k3, bf, si, k2t, sbi, pi, si, k2t, sbi, bf, 
k3, bf, ki, (bf, k2t, three times). Repeat. 

Sixth row — pi3, ki,p6. Repeat. 

Seventh row—bf, k5, bf, si, k2t, sbi, bf, k5, bf, ki, 
(bf, k2t, three times). Repeat. 

Eighth row — pearl all but the edge stitches. 

Repeat these eight rows thirty-six times, cast off loosely, 
and knit the following edging. 


EDGING FOR SHAWL, NO. 2. 

Cast on twenty-five stitches. 

First row — k2, bf, k2t, bf, ki, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, ki, 
pi, ki, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, ki, bf, ki, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t, ki. 

Second row — k3, pi, k2, pi, ki, p3, ki, p2, ki, p2, 
ki, p7- 

Third row — k2, bf, k2t, bf, ki, bf, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, 
pi, si, ki, sbi, pi, k2t, bf, ki, bf, k3, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t, ki. 

Fourth row —k3, pi, k2, pi, ki, p6, ki, pi, ki, pi, 
ki, p8. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


93 


Fifth row—k2, bf, k2t, bf, k3, bf, sr, k2t, sbi, pi, si, 
k2t, sbi, bf, k3, bf, k5, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2t, ki. 

Sixth row — k3, pi, k2, pi, ki, pio, ki, pio. 

Seventh row — k2, bf, k2t, bf, k5, bf, si, k2t, sbi, bf, 
k5, bf, ki2. 

Eighth row — Cast off six stitches, pearl twenty-four. 

Repeat these eight rows two hundred times. 

SHETLAND SHAWL, NO. 3 . 

Eight ounces of Shetland wool. Needles, No. 7, Bell 
guage. 

Cast on one hundred and seventy-five stitches. 

Knit two plain rows, and at the beginning and end of 
each row, knit two edge stitches. 

First row — ki, * pi, k2t, k2, bf, ki, bf, k2, k2t. Re¬ 
peat from * seventeen times, pi, ki. 

Second row— ki,*ki, p2t, pi, bf, p3, bf, pi, p2t. Re¬ 
peat from * seventeen times, k2. 

Third row — ki, * pi, k2t, bf, k5, bf, k2t. Repeat from 
* seventeen times, pi, ki. 

Fourth row— ki, p2t, * bf, p7, bf, p3t. Repeat from * 
seventeen times, bf, p2t, ki. 

Fifth row — k2, bf, k2, k2t, * pi,k2t, k2, bf, ki, bf, k2, 
k2t. Repeat from * seventeen times, bf, k2. 

Sixth row — ki, p2, bf, pi, p2t, * ki, p2t, pi,bf, p3, bf, 
pi, p2t. Repeat from * seventeen times, bf, p2, ki. 

Seventh row — k4, bf, k2t, * pi, k2t, bf, k5, bf, k2t. 
Repeat from * seventeen times, bf, k4. 

Eighth row—ki, p4, * bf, p3t, bf, p7- Repeat from* 
seventeen times, bf, p4, ki. 


94 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


Repeat this pattern twenty-seven times, then knit the 
following border, observing at the beginning of every row 
to make a stitch which will form a point, which is to be 
joined at the corner when the border is knitted on the 
four sides. 


BORDER FOR SHAWL, NO. 3 . 

First row — knitted. 

Second row — pearled. 

Third row — k6, k2t, bf, k6. Repeat. 

Fourth row — pearled. 

Fifth row — plain knitting. 

Sixth row— p5, bf, p3t, bf, p6. Repeat. 

Seventh row — plain knitting. 

Eighth row — pearled. 

Ninth row — k5, bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, k4. Repeat. 

Tenth row— p5, bf, p31, bf, p6. Repeat. 

Eleventh row — plain knitting. 

Twelfth row — p3, bf, p2t, p3, p2t, bf, p4« Repeat. 
Thirteenth row — k5, bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, k4. Repeat. 
Fourteenth row — p5, bf, p3t, bf, p6. Repeat. 

Fifteenth row — k3, bf, k2t, k5, k2t, bf, k2. Repeat. 
Sixteenth row — p3, bf, p2t, p3, p2t, bf, p4. Repeat. 
Seventeenth row—k5 , bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, k4. Repeat. 
Eighteenth row— pi, bf, p2t, p2, bf, p3t, bf, p2, p2t, bf, 
p2. Repeat. 

Nineteenth row— k3, bf, k2t, k5, k2t, bf, k2. Repeat. 
Twentieth row—p3, bf, p2t, p3, p2t, bf, p4. Repeat. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


95 


Twenty-first row — ki, bf, k2t, k2, bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, 
k2, k2t, bf. Repeat. 

Twenty-second row — pi, bf, p2t, p2, bf, p3t, bf, p2, p2t, 
bf, p2. Repeat. 

Twenty-third row — k3, bf, k2t, k5, k2t, bf, k2. Repeat. 

Twenty-fourth row — P3, bf, p2t, p3, p2t, bf, p4. Re¬ 
peat: 

Twenty-fifth row—k5, bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, k4. Repeat. 

Twenty-sixth row — p5, bf, p3t, bf, p4, p2t, bf. Repeat. 

Twenty-seventh row — k6, k2t, bf, k6. Repeat. 

Twenty-eighth row — p5, p2t, bf, pi, bf, p2t, p4- Repeat. 

Twenty-ninth row—k3, k2t, bf, k3, bf, k2,t, 1<4. Re¬ 
peat. 

Thirtieth row — p3, p2t, bf, p5, bf, p2t, p2. Repeat. 

Thirty-first row—ki, k2t, bf, k7, bf, k2t, k2. Repeat. 

Thirty-second row — pi, p2t, bf, P9, bf, p2t. Repeat. 

Thirty-third row — ki, * bf, k5, bf, k2t, k4, bf, k31. Re¬ 
peat from *, bf, k2t. 

Thirty-fourth row — pearled. 

Thirty-fifth row — ki, bf, k2t, k9, k2t, bf. Repeat. 
Finish with a plain stitch after making one. 

Thirty-sixth row—p2, bf, p2t, p7, p2t, bf, pi. Repeat, p2. 

Thirty seventh row — k3, bf, k2t, k5, k2t, bf, k2. Re¬ 
peat, k3. 

Thirty-eighth row — p4, bf, p2t, p3, p2t, bf, p3- Re¬ 
peat, p4. 

Thirty-ninth row—k5, bf, k2t, ki, k2t, bf, k4« Re¬ 
peat, k5. 

Fortieth row — p6, * bf, p3t, bf, p4, p2t, bf, p5. Repeat 
from *, p6. 


9 6 


A R T-A'EEDLE WORK. 


Knit a plain row, and cast off loosely, take lip the loops 
clown one side, and knit two and make one to the end of 
the needle, then knit the border as on the end. 


EDGING FOR SHAWL, NO. 3 . 

Cast on twenty-two stitches. 

First row— k3, bf, k2t, ki, pi, k2t, k2, bf, ki, bf, k2, 
k2t, pi, ki, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2. 

Second row— k3, pi, k2, pi, k2, p2t, pi, bf, p3, bf, pi, 
p2t, kzj., bf, k2t, ki. 

Third row — k3, bf, k2t, ki, pi, k2t, bf, k5, bf, k2t, 
pi, k8. 

Fourth row — Cast off three stitches, k4. p2t, bf, p7, bf, 
p2t, k3, bf, k2t, ki. 

Fifth row —1<3, bf, k2t, k2, bf, k2, k2t.. pi, k2t, k2, bf, 
k2, bf2, k2t, bf2, k2. 

Sixth row—k3, pi, k2, pi, ki, p2, bf, pi, p2t, ki, p2t, 
pi, bf, p2, k3, bf, k2t, ki. 

Seventh row — k3, bf, k2t, kzp bf, k2t, pi, k2t, bf, ku. 

Eighth row—Cast off three stitches, k4, p4, bf, p3t, bf, 
P4, k 3 , bf, k 2 t, ki. 

Repeat these eight rows two hundred times. 


ART -NEEDLEWORK. 


97 


CHAPTER VI. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR KNITTING SOCKS AND 

STOCKINGS. 

In knitting with four needles, knit the first stitch of 
each needle tight, or a line will be seen at the change of 
needles. Cast the knitting on loose. 

For ribbing stockings, the best rule is, knit two, pearl 
two; therefore, the number of stitches should be any num¬ 
ber of fours, forty-eight, fifty-two, fifty-six, eighty, ninety- 
two, and so on. Stockings require from one to two inches, 
socks from two to three inches, of ribbing at the top. 

In putting away stocking-knitting, reach the middle of 
the needle, so that you can fold the work up squarely, give 
the knitting a slight pull lengthwise, wind up the wool, 
silk, or cotton, and pass one end of the needles through the 
ball. 

Make a pattern of stiff paper of the shape and size of 
the stocking required, and make the measurings conform 
to this, or have by you a stocking of the right size and 
shape to measure by, as every knitter varies, in knit¬ 
ting tight or loose ; and different materials require a larger 
or smaller number of stitches, so that it is impossible to 
give an exact rule. For a silk sock, about one hundred 

O 

and thirty-five stitches might be needed. The following 
rule is for an average-sized stocking, and the number of 
stitches can be enlarged to as many as one hundred and 
sixty-nine, or diminished to suit the pattern. 


9 8 


A R T-NEEDLEIV ORE. 


STOCKING. 

Cast on one hundred and twenty stitches. 

On the first needle forty-one stitches. Pearl-stitch in the 
middle. On the second needle forty stitches. On the third 
thirty-nine stitches. Knit the pearled stitch in the first 
round ; pearl the pearled stitch in the second round. Re¬ 
peat to the end of the heel, marking the pearled stitch 
with a loop of white cotton. Knit seven inches. Decrease 
before and after the pearled stitch, in twenty rounds. 

Mark each decreasing on the right side of the pearled 
stitch with a loop of white cotton. 

Decrease thus: knit plain till there are four stitches 
before the pearled stitch, si, ki, sb, k2. Pearled stitch, ki, 
si, ki, sb, knit the rest plain. Knit six plain rounds 
between each decreasing round. 

Ankle — eighty stitches. Knit two inches. Measure 
from the last decreasing round. 

Heel —forty-five stitches. Knit with two needles only, 
back and forward, pearling each alternate row. Leave the 
thirty-five instep stitches on the other two needles. Slip 
the first stitch of each row. Repeat for two and a half 
inches. Decrease in eight rows on each side of the 
pearled stitch. Mark the decreasings on the right side of 
the pearled stitch with a loop of white cotton. Decrease 
thus : knit plain till there are four stitches before the 
pearled stitch, k2t, k2. Pearled stitch —k2, si, ki, sb. 
Knit the rest plain. 

Pearl one row between each decreasing row. After the 
last decreasing row, pearl to the middle pearled stitch. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


99 


Place the two needles together. With an extra needle, 
cast off from the stitches on both needles at once, on the 
wrong side, beginning with the middle pearled stitch. 

Instep — thirty-five stitches. Begin from the join of the 
heel. On the first needle, take up the loops on the first 
side of the heel. On the second needle, place the thirty- 
five instep stitches. On the third needle, take up the 
loops on the second side of the heel. Knit one plain 
round ; knit one round, increasing every third stitch on 
each side of the heel. Knit the instep stitches without 
increasing. Take two stitches from each end of the instep 
needle, and place them on the instep end of each heel 
needle. Mark the decreasings of the first needle with a 
loop of white cotton. Decrease thus: first needle, knit 
plain till four stitches are left on the needle ; k2t, k2. 
Second needle, knit the instep stitches plain. Third 
needle, k2, si, ki, sb. Knit the rest plain. Knit one 
plain round between each decreasing round. Decrease till 
there are eighty stitches on the three needles. 

Foot — eighty stitches. Knit six and a half inches. 
Measure from the join of the heel. 

First needle—knit plain, that the toe may begin on 
the upper needle. 

Toe—eighty stitches. On the upper needle place 
twenty-six stitches. On the first under needle, place 
twenty-seven stitches. On the second under needle place 
twenty-seven stitches. Mark the first decreasings of the 

upper needle with a loop of white cotton. Decrease eight 

* _ 

stitches in one round, then knit six times round. Then re¬ 
peat k6, k2t for one round, and knit six times round; then 
k5, k2t for one round and knit five times round ; then k4; 


IOO 


A R T-NEEDL E WORK. 


k2t all the way round ; knit four rounds. K3, k2t all the 
way round ; knit three rounds. K2, k2t all the way round ; 
knit two rounds ; and so on till you have only three on the 
needle, when you draw the thread through. 

There are various ways of knitting off the toe, and of 
rounding the heel ; but the directions given above follow 
a good New-England method, and will serve as a standard 
to be modified by further experience; and the rule should 
always be adapted to the measure of the pattern stocking. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


IOI 


FINAL SUGGESTIONS. 

It is hoped that the table of contents will be able to 
answer satisfactorily the question of the knitter, “ What 
shall I make ? ” and that this book will answer the other 
question, “ How shall I do it ? ” 

There will be found various suggestions for affghans, 
counterpanes, baby blankets, chair-backs, purses, pin¬ 
cushions, shawls, clouds, etc. 

The numerous stitches given can be used in various 
ways, the more solid stitches for the affghans and baby 
blankets, the more open ones for purses, watch-guards, etc. 

Brioche cushions are always useful for footstools. 

Edgings and insertions knit of fine Macrame cord are 
useful for chair-backs, — the convenient article which has 
borne the various names of tidy, anti-macassar, etc. These 
insertions should, for this purpose, be connected by wide 
satin ribbon, of a color to correspond with the furniture, 
and an edging should be added across the top and bot¬ 
tom ; or the strips of insertion can be finished off in 
points at top and bottom, as described in Lattice Pattern 
for affghans. In this case, the ribbon should be pointed 
to correspond. 

A bolster-cushion, made for the back of a chair, is very 
handsome, of silk, plush, or damask, with two strips of 
knit insertion of fine Macrame twine, No. 35, or finer. 
The insertions should be passed round the cushion, half¬ 
way between the middle and ends, with a narrow edging 


102 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


on each side of the insertion, giving the effect of lace 
stripes. The Lattice Pattern is very handsome for an 
affghan done in stripes, with two colors, cardinal and 
gray, for instance. 

All affghan stripes should be connected by a crochet 
cord, made of two rows of chain-stitch, one black, one 
gold color, twisted in and out of each other, caught down 
between the twists on the seam. 

Loop-knitting, described on page 72, is useful for lining 
slippers, for borders, or for warm wristers. For the latter, 
twist-stitch back, between the loop rows, as a firmer stitch 
is thus made. 

Handsome portieres can be made by knitting up scraps 
of silk. These should be cut in strips about the width 
of your finger, and then stitched together, crossing the 
ends, a little way from the end. These strips can be of 
any length or color, and can also be cut cross-wise. The 
fuzzy ends should be left, turned on the right side. If 
preferred, these can be sent to some weaver, and woven 
into a firm fabric, but a knitter, with long winter evenings 
to be occupied, will find it entertaining to knit them up 
herself. 

A pretty thing for the head, called Nun’s Veil, can be 
knit of Shetland Wool. 

Cast on ninety stitches on medium-sized wooden needles, 
and knit back and forward a square, using up about a 
quarter of an ounce. Knit off another quarter in one 
length with half of the stitches, and finish off. Go back 
and take up the other half of the stitches left on the 
needle, and knit down to match the other side. Finish 
off these two ends with a tassel. 


A R T-NEEDLE WORK. 


103 


Draw lip the first end to be worn on the top of the 
head with a bow ; the other two ends to be crossed at 
back, and wound round the neck. 

In the English rules given here, the numbers for needles 
and thread are retained, but they may not always be 
found here. 


Boston Stereotype Foundry, No. 4 Pearl Street. 




BEST IS THE CHEAPEST. 

CORTICELLI SPOOL SILK 

AND 

BUTTON-HOLE TWIST, 

Unequalled for Hand or Machine Sewing. Ask your dealer for it. 


FLORENCE ETCHING SILK, 

Prepared expressly for Art Designs in Outline. This Silk has a soft 
finish; it will not split or fray in working, and is durable both in color and 
texture. 


FLORENCE KNITTING SILK. 


Suitable for 
Knitting Stock¬ 
ings, Mittens, 
Wristers, Edg¬ 
ings, and other 
articles. Put up 
on half ounce 
balls in black, 
white and col¬ 
ors. An illus¬ 
trated book of 
82 pages, con- 
tainingrulesfor 
Knitting Flor¬ 
ence Silk, sent 
by mail on re¬ 
ceipt ofathree- 
cent stamp. 

Address 

NONOTUCK 
SILK CO., 

Florence, Mass. 



Brilliancy and 
durability ofcol- 
or, smoothness 
and evenness of 
sizes in thread, 
w ith softness of 
finish and free¬ 
dom from all 
deleterioiiS dye¬ 
stuffs, are the 
qualities which 
have establish¬ 
ed the reputa¬ 
tion oftheA7<?r- 
enceas the only 
Knitting Silk 
which has met 
v ith favorable 
consideration. 

ltisforsaleby 
dealers in fine 
fancy goods ev- 
eiywhere. Ask 
for it, and do 
not allow substi- 
tutes to be im¬ 
posed upon you. 


CORTICELLI EMBROIDERY SILK. 

On Spools (4 Skeins each). 

Ladies, save time and money, and improve your art work, by using 
these goods. 

This Embroidery Silk, sold on Spools, is of better quality than that com¬ 
monly sold in Skeins. Sold by all enterprising dealers. 


































TILTON’S 

DECORATIVE ART COLOR-BOX. 

Each Box has our name stamped on the lid. 


TEN MOIST WATER-COLORS AND THREE BRUSHES 
IN A JAPANNED TIN BOX, FOR 50 CENTS, 

ARRANGED IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER: 

INDIGO, VERMILION, COBALT, GAMBOGE, PRUSSIAN BLUE, C. LAKE, 
VANDYKE BROWN, YELLOW OCHRE, SEPIA, LIGHT RED. 

NO CHANGE MADE IN THE BOXES. 


The Cups in the Lid are available for preparing large washes, and the Palette Flap 

for trying Colors. 


These are not Toy Colors, but have been manufactured for us in London for the use 
of Art Students and beginners in Water-Color Tainting, for which purpose they are 
equal to the best, and it will require an experienced artist to detect any difference 
between them and the most expensive pigments. These ten colors, with their com¬ 
binations, will be found all which are absolutely needed by the student and beginner. 
But for the convenience of those who may wish for other tints without the trouble of 
mixing, we can supply the following colors separately at Six Cents each: 

Black, Brown Madder, Brown Pink, Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umrer, Carmine, 
Carnation, Chinese White, Chrome (Deep), Chrome (Pale), Coralt, Crimson 
Lake, Emerald Green, Gamboge, Green Bice, Hooker’s Green, Indian Red, 
Indian Yellow, Indigo, Light Red, Naples Yellow, Neutral Tint, Olive, 
Orange, Prussian Blue, Purple Lake, Raw Sienna, Raw Umber, Red Lead, 
Roman Ochre, Royal Blue, Scarlet Lake, Sepia, Ultramarine, Vandyke 
Brown, Venetian Red, Vermilion, Yellow Ochre. 























TIEHSTIHVHOZ^XA-ILS. 


In favor of Tilton’s Decorative Art Color-Box. 

-- 


Spring Hill, Somerville, Mass., April 6, 1881. 
Messrs. S. W. Tilton & Co., 333 Washington St., Boston. 

Gentlemen ,—I take great pleasure in recommending your Decorative Art Color- 
Box. I have used it in the Newton High School, and find that it answers every 
requirement. The colors arc clear and brilliant, and work well, while its low price 
places it within reach of all. I consider it the best of the kind in the market. 

Very respectfully, E. F. BOWLER, 

Teacher of Drawing, Newton and Salem Normal. 

Boston, April 21, 1SS1. 

Mr. Tilton. 

Dear Sir ,—I have tried the colors of your Decorative Art Color-Box , and feel no 
hesitation in saying that they are well adapted to the purpose for which you intend 
them, and fully merit all that they claim. 

Yours, &c., MERCY A. BAILEY, 

For the past ten years Teacher of Drawing in Boston Public Schools. 


Mr. Tilton. 

Dear Sir ,—I have tried the box of Water Colors, and am much pleased with them. 
They seem to me well adapted to use in the Public Schools. 

Very truly yours, M. A. HAWES, 

Brighton High School. 

Messrs. S. W. Tilton & Co. 69 Pembroke St., June 6, 1881. 

Dear Sirs ,—As far as I have used them, I like them better than the Art School 
Color-Box which the pupils have been using the past year. The Colors being in pans 
is an advantage; also the fact that the Colors can be obtained separately at a moderate 
price. I have recommended the Decorative Art Color-Box to be used next year. 

Very respectfully yours, JULIA A. STETSON, 

Girls’ High School, Boston. 

St. Mary’s School, Knoxville, III. 

Messrs. S. W. Tilton & Co. 

Sirs ,—The Color-Boxes and Cards were promptly forwarded. It gives me 
pleasure to find such excellent Colors at so low a price; they are by far the best 
Colors for the money I have ever seen, and well adapted for School work. I intend 
introducing them more extensively into the School another year. The Cards have 
been very popular among the pupils at St. Mary’s. 

Very respectfully, ELLEN DEWEY, 

Teacher of Drawing and Painting. 


Paints give entire satisfaction, producing results equal to best. 

MISS M. K. DAVIS, 

Drawing Teacher, Normal School, St. Louis, Mo> 

Mr. Tilton. Boston, June 6th. 

Dear Sir— I have used the Colors in your Decorative Art Box, and gladly 
recommend them. They work clearly and easily, and the bright colors,—such as 
Crimson Lake, Cobalt, &c .,—are especially good. 

Yours truly, CLARA IT. BALCH, 

Teacher of Drawing in Iloxbury High School. 







French Water Colors in Tubes 


Wc have just received from Taris some remarkably fine and brilliant Water 
Colors in tubes, which we can supply by the box or by the single tube. 

The Art Student’s Box No. 1, 

Consists of fourteen tubes of colors, as follows : — Indigo, Prussian Blue, Cobalt , 
Sepia, Vandyke Brown, Burnt Sienna, Broim Madder , Light lied, Crimson Lake, 
Vermilion, Indian Yelloio , Yellow Ochre, Chrome Yellow, Chinese White, and four 
good brushes. Price, $4.00. 

By taking out Cobalt , Brown Madder, and Indian Yellow , and substituting three 
other colors of our own selection, we can sell the box for $3.00. 

The Art Student’s Box No. 2, 

Consists of a Palette with space for mixing twelve colors, and the following colors in 
tubes:—Emerald Green, Indigo, Prussian Blue, Ivory Black, Sepia, Vandyke Brown, 
Burnt Sienna, Light Red, Crimson Lake, Vermilion, Yellow Ochre, Gamboge. Price, 
$-5.00. 

The following colors can be sold separately at 15 cents per tube:—Ivory Black, 
Chinese White, Burnt Sienna, Chrome Yellow, Crimson Lake, Gamboge, Indigo, Light 
Red, Prussian Blue, Sepia, Vandyke Brown, Vermilion, Yellow Ochre, Sap Green. 

At 25 cents, Purple Lake Mauve; at 35 cents, Rose Madder, Brown Madder; at 
40 cents, Indian Yellow; at 50 cents, Cobalt. In ordering single tubes by mail, 
please remit a 2-cent stamp for postage. 

We also have a Palette made for the use of the tube colors, Avith space for mixing 
twelve colors, and for carrying brushes. Price, $1.00. 


FLAXMAN’S OUTLINE DESIGNS 
OF THE HUMAN FIGURE. 

Illustrating Grecian and Roman Mythology. 

Size of Plates, 3 to 4 and 5 to 7 inches. 

These subjects are extensively used in Decorative Art and as 
Studies in Figure Drawing. 

The First Scries of Twenty” Designs, including Achilles, Andro¬ 
mache, Ajax, Apollo, Circe, Calypso, Diana, Hector, Hermes, Iris, 
Juno, Jupiter, Lampetia, Minerva, Mars, Mercury, Morning, Nep¬ 
tune, Nausicaa, Penelope, Paris, Scylla, Thetis, Ulysses, Venus, 
&c., &c., now ready. 

PRICE IN A PORTFOLIO, $1.00. 

Sent by mail, to any address, on receipt of price. 


S. W. TILTON & Co., Boston, Publishers. 













■ 



IDO YOTJE OWH STAMPING-. 

TILTON’S 

Hand Colored Designs and Perforated Patterns 
For Art Needlework. 

With the Perforated Pattern which accompanies each Hand Colored Design 
any one may easily stamp the same on the material to be embroidered. T he 
patterns are not destroyed by once using', but may be repeated hundreds of times. 
Stamping Powder, with full directions for stamping, are sent with each pattern. 
Catalogue of Designs sent free to any address on application to S. W. Tilton 
& Co., 333 Washington Street, Boston. 


TILTON’S ART NEEDLEWORK SERIES. 

No. I. 

ART-NEEDLEWORK FOR DECORATIVE EMBROIDERY. A 

Guide to Embroidery in Crewels, Silks, Applique, &c., and containing 
the instructions given at the Royal School for Art Needlework, at 
South Kensington, England. Edited by Lucretia P. Hale. Price 50 cts. 

No. II. 

ART-NEEDLEWORK. — POINT LACE. With illustrations of 

Stitches and Valuable Patterns. By Lucretia P. Hale. Price . 50 cts. 

No. III. 

ART-NEEDLEWORK.—MORE STITCHES FOR DECORATIVE 
EMBROIDERY. Containing Holbein, Punto, Tirato (drawn 
work), Vienna Cross Stitch, Double Platt Stitch, and Cordonnet, 
and eighty illustrations and patterns. By Lucretia P. Hale. 

Price. 50 cts. 


No. IV. 

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. — MENDING, KNITTING, AND 
DARNING FOR ALL, at Home and in Schools; giving instruc¬ 
tion in Plain Sewing, &c., the Management of Classes, with twenty 
illustrations. Compiled from the best English works on these 
subjects, with some additional suggestions by the American editor. 

Edited by Lucretia P. Hale. Price.50 cts. 

No. V. 

THE ART OF KNITTING. Containing careful directions for 
beginners, as well as illustrated instruction in a variety of Knitting 
Stitches, Patterns and Novelties, for those advanced in Knitting. 
Compiled from valuable sources, with many additions by Lucretia 
P. Hale. Also nearly one hundred illustrations. Price .... 73 cts. 


S. W. TILTON & CO., Publishers, 

333 “XFT" suslilin.g'ton St., Boston. 

Either of the above Books will be sent by mail to any address on receipt 
of price. 


NOV on 1945 


















































































